Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
_13th April_.--I awoke for the first time in a Turkoman tent, which
among the Yomuts receives the appellation of Tchatma, but amongst
other tribes is called Aladja. The sweet sleep that I had enjoyed, and
the light construction in which I found myself, had made me feel fresh
and light of heart: the charm of novelty transported me, and my
delight was without bounds. This did not escape the notice of Hadji
Bilal, who invited me to take a short walk with him, and when we had
got to a short distance from the Tchatma, he observed to me that it
was now high time to lay aside entirely my Efendi character, and
become body and soul a Dervish. 'You must have already remarked,' said
my good friend, 'that both I and my associates bestow upon the public
Fatiha (blessings): this you must do also. I know that this is not the
custom in Roum, but people here will expect and demand it. It will
occasion great surprise, if, representing yourself to be a Dervish,
you do not carry out the character to its full extent. You know the
form of benediction: assume, therefore, a serious face, and distribute
your Fatiha (blessings); you can also give the Nefes (holy breath)
when you are summoned to the sick, only never forget to extend your
hand at the same time, for it is a matter of notoriety that we {49}
Dervishes subsist by such acts of piety, and they are always ready
with some little present or other.' Hadji Bilal apologised for
presuming to school me; still, he said that it was for my benefit, and
that I must have heard of the story of the traveller who, when he
reached the land of the one-eyed nation, to put himself upon an
equality with them, kept one of his eyes closed. After I had warmly
thanked him for his counsel, he told me also that Khandjan, and many
other Turkomans, had made particular enquiries respecting me, and that
it had cost him much trouble and strong protestations to convince them
that my journey had not in the slightest degree an official character.
The Turkomans naturally inclined to the idea that I had been sent by
the Sultan to Khiva and Bokhara on some anti-Russian mission; that he
was not disposed to disturb their belief, as they had the greatest
respect for the Sultan. The result of all was that I should never for
a moment throw aside my Dervish character, for that enigmas and
ambiguities were what best suited this people. Having said this, we
returned to our quarters, where our host was waiting for us, with many
of his friends and relatives. First he presented his wife and aged
mother, whom he commended to our powerful intercession and blessings;
then we were made acquainted with other near members of his family.
After we had rendered to all the expected services, Khandjan remarked
that it was the custom of the Turkomans to regard a guest as the
dearest member of the family; that we might without obstacle move
about, not only amongst his own clan, but amongst the whole tribe of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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