Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
In the whole district of Gömüshtepe there had never been till now,
with the exception of the construction in its vicinity attributed to
the Greeks, which was now in ruins, anything in the shape of a wall;
and certainly it is to be regarded as some indication of a progress in
civilisation that the idea of erecting an edifice for divine worship
in this spot, which is regarded as the principal seat of the Yomuts,
had been even broached. Each pious Turkoman had imposed it upon
himself as a duty to bring to the same place a few hundreds of the
beautiful square bricks from the fortified works built by Alexander;
and as the materials were now regarded as sufficient, a Turkoman was
expressly engaged as architect. His business had often carried him to
{53} Astrakhan, and he passed for a man of experience in such matters.
He was entrusted with the execution of the entire building. After I
had, by means of my compass, indicated to them the direction in which
Mecca lies, they began to build the walls without laying any
foundations: a forgetfulness affording very little guarantee for the
solidity of the whole construction, and yet so much the better for
them, perhaps; for, should it last long enough, the Russians may,
possibly, some day or other, make use of it as the advanced works of a
fort, and the vast designs of the great Macedonian may be turned to
account by the rival ambition of a Romanoff.
I had hardly spent a week in Gömüshtepe when, through the protection
above mentioned, I had made acquaintances everywhere. I was now able
to penetrate the secrets of their social relations, to learn the
numerous ramifications and families into which the tribe is divided,
and, if possible, form an idea concerning the bond that holds together
elements apparently so discordant and confused. The task was somewhat
more difficult than I had supposed. I had only to touch upon a
question relating to ordinary life, or to show a curiosity for some
matter or other, to make men wonderingly ask what a Dervish, whose
proper business was only God and religion, had to do with the affairs
of this transitory world. My enquiries, therefore, on these heads cost
me great trouble, for direct questions I never dared to put. Most
fortunately, however, the Turkomans, who pass all their lives, with
the exception of that part devoted to marauding expeditions, in the
greatest indolence, are prone to indulge for hours and hours in
conversations on political matters, to which I only listened in {54}
silence; and sitting there thus dreamily, with my beads in my hands,
it has been permitted to me to study the history of their raids
(alaman), of their relations with Vilayet (Persia), with the Khan of
Khiva, and with other nomad nations.
[Excursion to the North-east of Gömüshtepe]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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