Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
My reception, both by the ambassador and the secretaries, was of the
most friendly description: room was soon found for me at the table,
and in a few moments we were in deep conversation, respecting Stamboul
and her beautiful views, the Sultan and his mode of government. Ah!
how refreshing in Teheran is the recollection of the Bosphorus!
{5}
[Turkey and Persia]
What wonder if, in the course of the conversation, frequent
comparisons were instituted between the Persian and the Turkish manner
of living?
If one too hastily gives way to first impressions, Iran, the theme of
so much poetic enthusiasm, is, after all, nothing but a frightful
waste; whereas Turkey is really an earthly paradise. I accord to the
Persian all the politeness of manners, and all the readiness and
vivacity of wit, that are wanting to the Osmanli; but in the latter
the absence of these qualities is more than compensated by an
integrity and an honourable frankness not possessed by his rival. The
Persian can boast a poetic organisation and an ancient civilisation.
The superiority of the Osmanli results from the attention he is paying
to the languages of Europe, and his disposition gradually to acquaint
himself with the progress that European savans have made in chemistry,
physics, and history.
Our conversation was prolonged far into night. The following days were
devoted to my presentation at the other European embassies. I found
Count Gobineau, the Imperial ambassador, under a small tent in a
garden like a caldron, where the heat was awful. Mr. Alison was more
comfortably quartered in his garden at Gulahek, purchased for him by
his Government. He was very friendly. I had often the opportunity, at
his hospitable table, of studying the question why the English envoys
everywhere distinguish themselves amongst their diplomatic brethren,
by the comfortableness as well as the splendour of their
establishments. In addition to the diplomatic corps of Europe, I found
at that time at Teheran many officers, French or Italian; an Austrian
officer, too, of the engineers, R. von Gasteiger; all of them in the
service of the Shah, with liberal allowances. {6} These gentlemen, as
I heard, were disposed to render themselves very serviceable,
possessing all the requisite qualifications; but any benefit that
might have resulted was entirely neutralised by the systematic want of
system that existed in Persia, and by the low intrigues of the
Persians.
[Ferrukh Khan's Visit to Europe]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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