Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
As at this hour there was almost every day an Arz (public audience),
the principal entrance, as well as all the other chambers of the royal
residence traversed by us, were crowded with petitioners of every
class, sex, and age. They were attired in their ordinary dresses, and
many women had even children in their arms, waiting to obtain a
hearing; for no one is required to inscribe his name, and he who has
managed to force his way first is first admitted. The crowd, however,
gave way for us on all sides; and it was a source of great
satisfaction to hear the women, whilst pointing to me, saying to one
another, 'Behold the Dervish from Constantinople, who is to give his
blessing to our Khan. May God give ear to his words!'
I found the Mehter, as I had been told, in a hall surrounded by his
officers, who accompanied every word of their lord with approving
smiles. It was easy to distinguish, by his brown complexion and his
long thick beard falling down to his breast, that he was Sart (of
Persian origin). His clumsy dress and his great fur cap especially
suited his rough features admirably. As he saw me approach he spoke a
few words laughingly to those around him. I went straight up, saluted
him with a serious expression of countenance, and assumed at once the
place of honour in the company, belonging of right to the Dervishes. I
uttered the usual prayers, and after all had added the Amen with the
ordinary stroking of the beard, the customary civilities were
interchanged with the Mehter. The minister was desirous of showing his
wit, and remarked that even Dervishes in Constantinople were well
educated, and spoke Arabic (although I had only made use of the
Stambouli dialect). He proceeded to say that the Hazret (his
majesty)--and here every {128} one rose from his seat--desired to see
me, and that 'he would be glad to hear that I had brought with me a
few lines from the Sultan or his ambassador in Teheran.' Whereupon I
observed that my journey had no secular object, that I wanted nothing
from any one; but that for my personal security I had with me a
Firman, bearing at the top the Tugra (seal of the Sultan). I then
handed to him my printed pass. On receiving this sign of paramount
sovereignty, he kissed it reverently, rubbed it on his forehead, rose
to place it in the hands of the Khan, and, returning almost
immediately, told me to step into the hall of audience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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