Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
The Töshebaz or convent that gave us shelter, from the great reservoir
of water and mosque which it encloses, was looked upon in the light of
a public place: {133} the court consequently swarmed always with
visitors of both sexes. The Özbeg in his high round fur hat, great
thick boots of leather, walks about merely in a long shirt, in summer
a favourite undress. This I myself adopted afterwards, as I found it
was not regarded as indecent, so long as the shirt retained its
whiteness, even to appear with it in the bazaar. The women wear lofty
globular turbans, consisting of from fifteen to twenty Russian
kerchiefs. They are forced, striding along, in spite of all the
overpowering heat, muffled in large gowns, and with their coarse
boots, to drag to their houses heavy pitchers full of water. Ah, I see
them now! Many a time one remains standing at my door, entreating for
a little Khaki Shifa (health dust [Footnote 33]), or a Nefes (holy
breath) for the real or feigned ill of which she complains. I have it
not in my heart to refuse these poor creatures, many of whom bear a
striking resemblance to the daughters of Germany. She cowers before my
door: I touch, moving my lips at the same time as if in prayer, the
suffering part of the body; and after having thrice breathed hard upon
her, a deep sigh is uttered, and my part is done. Many in these cases
persist that they perceive an instantaneous alleviation of their
malady!
[Footnote 33: This the pilgrims bring back with them from a house in
Medina, affirmed to have been the Prophet's. It is used by the
believers of the true faith as a medicine for many different
maladies.]
What in Europe idlers seek in coffee-houses they find in Khiva in the
courts of the mosques. These have in most cases a reservoir of water,
and are shaded by the finest palms and elm-trees. Although at the
beginning of June the heat was here unusually oppressive, {134} I was
nevertheless forced to keep my cell, although it was without windows,
for immediately I issued forth and betook myself to the inviting
shade, I was surrounded by a crowd, and plagued to death with the most
stupid enquiries. One wanted religious instruction; another asked if
the world offered elsewhere places as beautiful as Khiva; a third
wished, once for all, to receive authentic information whether the
Great Sultan really had his each day's dinner and supper forwarded to
him from Mecca, and whether they passed to his palace from the Kaaba
in one minute. Ah! if the good Ozbegs only knew how much Chateau
Lafitte and Margot garnished the sovereign's table in the reign of
Abdul Medjid!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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