Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
Accordingly, at an early hour in the morning the gentlemen of the
embassy, who had been sent on this business, went on shore, and were
received by the Governor with great politeness, and abundant ceremony,
in his hall of public audience, which, as a building, had little to
attract our notice. The usual minute enquiries being gone through,
which, it seems, Chinese good-breeding cannot dispense with, such as the
health of his visitors, of their parents and relations, and
particularly the name and age of each person, the object of our visit
was explained to him; and at the same time a hope expressed that there
would be no delay in getting the pilots on board. The old gentleman
appeared to be much surprized at such violent haste, and talked of
plays, feasts, and entertainments, that he meant to give us. Pilots,
however, he said, were ready to take charge of the ships, and to carry
them along the coast to the next province, where others would be found
to conduct them still farther. On being told that such a mode of
navigation was utterly impracticable for the large English ships, and
that such pilots would be of no use to us, he begged to be allowed the
remainder of the day to enquire for others. We little expected to have
met with any difficulties with regard to pilots, in one of the best and
most frequented ports in China, where, at that time several hundred
vessels were lying at anchor. The remainder of the day was spent in a
visit to the city of _Ting-hai_; but the crowd became so numerous, and
the day was so excessively hot, that before we had passed the length of
a street, we were glad to take refuge in a temple, where the priests
very civilly entertained us with tea, fruit, and cakes. The officer who
attended us advised us to return in sedan chairs, an offer which we
accepted; but the bearers were stopped every moment by the crowd, in
order that every one might satisfy his curiosity by thrusting his head
in at the window, and exclaiming, with a grin, _Hung-mau! Englishman_,
or, literally, _Redpate!_ Rather disappointed than gratified, we were
glad, after a fatiguing day, to throw ourselves into our cots on board
the Clarence.
When we went on shore the following morning, we found the military
governor, attended by a civil magistrate, by whom, after the usual
compliments, we were addressed, in a long oration, delivered apparently
with a great deal of solemnity, the intention of which was to convince
us that, as it had been the practice of the Chinese, for time
immemorial, to navigate from port to port, experience had taught them it
was the best. Finding, however, that his eloquence could not prevail on
his hearers to relinquish their own opinions on the subject, the
governor and he consulted together for some time, and at length resolved
that a general muster should be made of all the persons in that place,
who had at any time visited by sea the port of _Tien-sing_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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