Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
But before I quit these renowned gardens of Yuen-min-yuen, it will
naturally be expected I should say something on their subject. From all
that I had heard and read of the grandeur and beauty of the scenery and
the magnificence of the palaces, I had certainly expected to meet with a
style of gardening and laying out of grounds superior, or at least
equal, to any thing in the same line in Europe; and, perhaps indeed, I
might have been fully gratified in all my expectation provided no
restraint had been thrown upon our walks, which was far from being the
case. All the little excursions I made were by stealth. Even in the
short distance between the hall of audience and our lodgings, which
might be about three hundred paces, we were continually watched. The
idea of being stopped by an eunuch or some of the inferior officers
belonging to the court, was sufficient to put us on our guard against
meeting with any such mortification; pride, in such circumstances,
generally gets the better of the desire, however strong, of gratifying
curiosity. I sometimes, however, ventured to stroll from our lodging in
the evening in order to take a stolen glance at these celebrated
gardens.
The grounds of _Yuen-min-yuen_ are calculated to comprehend an extent of
at least ten English miles in diameter, or about sixty thousand acres, a
great part of which, however, is wastes and woodland. The general
appearance of those parts near where we lodged, as to the natural
surface of the country, broken into hill and dale, and diversified with
wood and lawn, may be compared with Richmond park, to which, however,
they add the very great advantage of abundance of canals, rivers, and
large sheets of water, whose banks, although artificial, are neither
trimmed, nor shorn, nor sloped, like the glacis of a fortification, but
have been thrown up with immense labour in an irregular, and, as it
were, fortuitous manner, so as to represent the free hand of nature.
Bold rocky promontories are seen jutting into a lake, and vallies
retiring, some choaked with wood, others in a state of high cultivation.
In particular spots where pleasure-houses, or places of rest or
retirement, were erected, the views appeared to have been studied. The
trees were not only placed according to their magnitudes, but the tints
of their foliage seemed also to have been considered in the composition
of the picture, which some of the landscapes might be called with great
propriety. But, if an opinion may be formed from those parts of them
which I have seen, and I understood there is a great similarity
throughout the whole, they fall very short of the fanciful and
extravagant descriptions that Sir William Chambers has given of Chinese
gardening. Much, however, has been done, and nothing that I saw could be
considered as an offence to nature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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