Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of MeroeHoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
History
Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of Meroe
Hoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Meroe (Extinct city); Nile River -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Antiquities; Sudan -- Description and travel
_Assuan.—Feb. 5._ In our journey of this and the two preceding days,
we have only had six to seven hours of wind; however, this afternoon,
we arrived at Assuan, and I immediately waited on the Nazr to procure
camels. On entering a Turkish divan, the traveller is merely required
to make a grave bow, placing his right hand to his left breast,
and to seat himself on the divan in the Turkish style, which, for
the information of those readers who have not been in the country,
I should say is exactly that easy position, which it seems in Europe
tailors only are privileged to assume. When seated, he usually salutes
the great man again in the same manner as before; but if the latter
be of very high rank, it is better to show respect by placing the
right hand, first, to the lips, and then, above the forehead. A few
complimentary speeches are now exchanged; such as “How do you do?”
“What a tall man you are!” “What a fine beard!” “You are
like one of us!” Welcome and thanks. Coffee is then presented to the
traveller. The Pasha gives pipes to noblemen at his own divan only;
but every English gentleman has a right to expect one, or to smoke
his own at the divan of any of his subordinate officers. The Turk,
if he is only a Katshef or Nazr, ought to make a kind of half rise
from his seat when the traveller enters; but it is very seldom that
his pride and desire of appearing a great man in his little court
permits him to show this courtesy. All the Turks possess, or have
the power of assuming, an apparently natural dignity of manner. The
liberated slave, raised suddenly to rank and authority, seems always
at his ease, as if born to the station that he fills. Education, that
is, the having learned with difficulty to read and write a letter
of four or five lines, makes no distinction, being an attainment in
which those of the highest rank are sometimes deficient. I presented
to the Nazr, a common-looking fellow, the Pasha’s firman, which,
as usual, he kissed and placed to his forehead. As soon as his
Coptic writer had read it to him, he ordered me a pipe, an attention
previously omitted, and in the mean time offered me his own; but
my servant at that moment entered with mine. I had ordered it,
because my not assuming my right in this trifling etiquette would
have made me less respected, not only by the Nazr and his court, but,
what was of real consequence, by the Arabs, who were to accompany me
across the desert to Berber. Generally I hate etiquette and ceremony,
as the north and north-east winds of society; but I have found from
experience, that with the Turks it is absolutely necessary to insist
upon their observance. Travellers, in their ignorance of Eastern
manners, are generally too humble to them. If even a Katshef pays
them a visit, they rise from their seats and bow, as often and as
low as if he were a monarch. Accordingly, when they return the
visit, they have the mortification to perceive, that the Turk,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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