Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of MeroeHoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
History
Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of Meroe
Hoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Meroe (Extinct city); Nile River -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Antiquities; Sudan -- Description and travel
_Feb._ 6. I heard this morning, with surprise, that I should probably
have to wait a week longer before procuring camels. Knowing the
Turks to be adepts at procrastination, I went to the Nazr, and
urged the necessity of my starting immediately. At my request, he
sent for the Sheakh of the Ababdes, the tribe who provide camels to
caravans and travellers for the journey between Assuan and Makkarif,
the capital of Berber. They act also as carriers to the Red Sea,
the Oasis Magna, along the Nile to Dongolah, and also across the
western side of the great Nubian desert. The residence of the
Sheakh being two hours distant, he did not arrive before this
evening. I was agreeably struck with his appearance; he was a man
of middle size; extremely regular features; a calm and dignified
manner; a benevolent, and at the same time noble, expression of
countenance. His dress was remarkably neat and clean. His turban
and long linen gown were beautifully white and of good materials. He
promised us that we should have camels the next day, and we agreed
that the price should be seventy piastres for the use of each during
the journey to Makkarif, where, it is said, we shall arrive in twenty
days. It is rather annoying to be thus detained, since every day is
of consequence, the season being so far advanced; but it is some
consolation that our time has not been quite lost. The island of
Elephantine is no longer adorned with temples. Some ruins of walls,
a rude statue of Osiris, slight traces of the temple of Chnubis,
and the Nilometer, are all the remains which now exist. The northern
part resembles a garden ornamented with beautiful groves of palm trees
and the richest cultivation. Syene offers still less to interest the
antiquarian, but much to strengthen the believer in Holy Writ. The
prophetic denunciation of Ezekiel is fulfilled. The tower of Syene
has truly fallen from the pride of her power. The ruin of a pier,
partly Roman but chiefly Arab, and an insignificant fragment of a
temple, are the only vestiges of this once important city. Yet the
natural scenery around is still beautiful, and the views from it,
as well as from the Island of Elephantine, are the most lovely in
Egypt. The castle of Syene, built by the Bosnian soldiers, forms,
even in its ruined state, a highly picturesque object. Several of
the descendants of the Bosnian soldiers are living at Assuan, and
in Lower Nubia. I met with one as far south as Amarah.[3]
_Feb._ 7. No camels are arrived; we are obliged, therefore, to
delay another day. This requires some patience, when every thing is
prepared for our expedition. I superintended this morning the filling
of the skins with water: I am sorry to find them very indifferent,
although the best I could procure.
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