Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of MeroeHoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
History
Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of Meroe
Hoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Meroe (Extinct city); Nile River -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Antiquities; Sudan -- Description and travel
_Sungar.—Feb._ 14. We have been eleven hours in the district of
El Elayat. We left the small village at the commencement of the
Wady this morning at seven, and encamped here at sunset. This is
the last village of the Wady. We have suffered more from fatigue
than before; the road, or rather path, having led for a long time
over the hills. Immediately after starting, we left the valley of
the Nile for an hour and a half. That part of the road was not very
fatiguing. We passed Seboua at eleven, and at two P.M. left the Nile,
and were obliged to alight from our camels and climb the mountain,
for three hours, over the most difficult paths we have yet met
with. A notion prevails in Europe, that camels are incapable of
crossing rough mountainous and stony roads; I can only say that,
upon this rocky, and sometimes steep path, none of our camels fell;
had we used horses, the difficulty would certainly have been as great,
particularly when heavy loads were upon their backs. I would not have
ventured to ride over, even on a mule. The mountains are of sandstone,
some also of hornblende. I sketched, this evening, a native of this
district, my dragoman in the mean time keeping him in conversation
till I finished my sketch, without his having any suspicion what I was
doing. All the Nubians have a superstitious prejudice against having
their portraits drawn. I made some enquiries about the village,
its name, the number of houses, and of inhabitants, &c. The poor
peasants imagined I was employed by the Pasha to take an account
of the country. Apprehensive that I should cause their taxes to be
raised, they gave me a lamentable description of their poverty, saying
that there were indeed eleven houses, but they were all tumbling to
pieces; that they were miserably poor; had scarcely a rag to cover
them; that their land did produce some little cotton and barley,
but if I caused their taxes to be increased, they could not subsist,
but must absolutely die of starvation. Man here may be said only to
vegetate. He drags on, from day to day, a miserable existence, living
on the coarsest food, and ignorant of any comfort. In examining,
however, more closely, we find the peasants of Nubia possessing
some great advantages over those of Lower and Upper Egypt. Their
domestic comfort is decidedly greater. Their women, unlike those
of Egypt, have always their faces uncovered, and enjoy in other
respects much freedom; while that depravity as regards both sexes,
which pervades the whole land of Egypt, is almost utterly unknown in
these Nubian villages. They are also less oppressed; and, thanks to
the poverty of their country, less annoyed by the presence of their
rulers. Their predominant vice is drinking immoderately of bouza and
arracki. There being only three mosques from the first to the second
cataract, a distance of more than 220 miles, and their almost total
deficiency of religious instruction, are perhaps some excuse for
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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