Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of MeroeHoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
History
Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of Meroe
Hoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Meroe (Extinct city); Nile River -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Antiquities; Sudan -- Description and travel
by my own Ababdes, as their own supply is small. I have, therefore,
caused all the geerbahs to be carried into my tent. If we run short,
and have to suffer, it shall not be for want of precautions. While
my camel men were thus occupied, one of them asked me why I was
subjecting myself to the danger and fatigue of such a journey,
when I was rich enough to stay at home. The Arabs are now not so
much surprised at travellers going to Wady Halfah. So many make that
journey, that it is no longer a novelty; besides that, the Cangias
(boats of the Nile), though any thing but agreeable to Europeans,
appear luxurious to the peasants. They can easily conceive the
pleasure of sailing in what they consider delightful conveyances,
listening to the songs of the boatmen, smoking all the day, and
eating and drinking of the best the villages can afford; but that
travellers should voluntarily expose themselves to the fatigues and
heat of the desert, apparently for the sake of a few old stones,
is to them quite incomprehensible.
_Desert.—Feb._ 17. A fearful accident has befallen us. To our utter
dismay, four of our largest geerbahs are empty, the water having
leaked out during the night. The skins are old, although the best
we could procure at Assuan. The rest seem good: Heaven grant that
they may prove so! the consequences of another such accident might be
fatal. We have passed to-day the bodies of seven human beings who have
doubtless recently perished from thirst and fatigue; we have seen also
dead camels without number. We have travelled twelve hours through
valleys of the same character as those we passed yesterday. Some of
the hills might be from 230 to 250 feet in height, but the greater
number from 100 to 150 feet. Many, like those of yesterday, are
isolated, and some standing in the centre of the valleys. They consist
chiefly of slate, but some are of sandstone. They are called Hojab el
Jenous, from there being several representations of buffaloes drawn
on the rocks by some rude artists, probably Arabs. The valleys are
almost entirely covered with sand, on which I found many round balls,
of the form of peaches, of iron glance. At sunset we left the valleys,
the last hills of which are rather higher than the others, and are
called Bab el Korosko, or the Gate of Korosko, and encamped behind
a small hill, at the commencement of a large sandy plain, called
Atmoor Bahr Bela Ma, that is, the sea without water. We have been
twenty-two hours _en route_ in these valleys, which I consider not
less than sixty miles, from the rate we have travelled. The Ababdes
occasionally sing to animate their camels. The effect in accelerating
their speed is quite extraordinary. First one camel-driver sings a
verse, then the others answer in chorus. It reminded me somewhat
of the Venetian gondoliers.[5] I noticed that they lingered near
the bodies of the dead camels, being apparently more affected by
them than by those of the slaves. The latter they perhaps knew not,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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