Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of MeroeHoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
History
Travels in Ethiopia, above the second cataract of the Nile : $b exhibiting the state of that country, and its various inhabitants, under the dominion of Mohammed Ali; and illustrating the antiquities, arts, and history of the ancient kingdom of Meroe
Hoskins, G. A. (George Alexander)
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Meroe (Extinct city); Nile River -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Antiquities; Sudan -- Description and travel
And what a fate! Few left in this manner
ever reach their destination. My Ababdes seem, also, to have a great
fear of the Bishareen, who occasionally plunder the caravans. These
alarms produce a certain excitement, which calls forth all the energy
of the traveller: but were these dangers tenfold greater than they
really are, the thought that I am approaching nearer and nearer to
Meroe would sufficiently animate my courage.
_Feb._ 19. We mounted our camels this morning at six, and at eleven
we left the Bahr Bela Ma, which we had been eighteen hours in crossing
(fifty-four miles). Our road began to wind amongst the mountains. The
first valley we passed was of considerable breadth, and contained
great numbers of doom and acacia trees. The former were not very
large, bearing no fruit, and apparently drooping for want of water. In
this valley, which is called Dilet el Doom, or Valley of the Shade
of the Dooms, I observed traces of torrents. Three hours to the east
of it, I am informed that there are appearances of exhausted gold
mines, of the habitations of the miners, and the stones used by them
in procuring the precious metal. The Arabs informed me that the rain
falls here chiefly at the rising of the Nile, but that last year there
was none, otherwise we should have seen herbage on the hills;—that
twenty-four hours is sufficient to produce it. This valley has the
appearance of having once been cultivated; but I could discover no
remaining trace of habitations. They tell me that the Bishareen,
when there is pasture on the hills, lead here their flocks, and
pitch their tents in this pretty valley. Perhaps, when Ethiopia
was more populous, and before the gold mines were exhausted, this
road was much frequented; and probably, by sinking wells (for I feel
persuaded that water might be found in these valleys), and by forming
small colonies at suitable stations, a safe and rapid communication
may have existed between the centre and extremity of the kingdom. A
short distance out of the direct road is a well called Omrisha,
now dry, but which contains water during the rainy season. About
an hour and a half beyond this is another well, called Sufir, now
also dry. The mountains consist generally of flinty slate, some
few of sandstone. Their forms are broken, and very picturesque. At
two o’clock we passed through a chain of hills, by a road which
has evidently been artificially formed. This is another proof that
pains have been taken by a more civilised people to diminish the
difficulties of travelling in this region. At four P.M. we entered
the valley of the spring called El Murrah, or the Well of Bitter
Waters, the only one in the Desert that is not now dry; we encamped
for the night, that our camels might have time to drink, and our
men to repose. On one of the rocks of the valley of the spring are
some hieroglyphics. I distinguished the name of the god Horus, and
the hawk, the emblem of that divinity. There are four wells within
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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