Metammah. — Difficulty of finding Camels to cross the Bahiouda Desert. — Wretched State of the Peasants when attacked by Illness. — Intermittent Fevers. — Costumes of Metammah. — Women of high Rank. — Their long Nails. — Manner of increasing their Length. — Bahiouda Desert. — Wells at Aboulay. — Reflections on the Desert Life. — Shageea Tribe. — Wells called Gagdool. — Signor B. unwell. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Animals of the Desert. — Greyhound Dog. — Well of Magaga. — Dangerous Illness of Signor B. — Well of delicious Water called Haless. — Beauty of the Scenery. — Shepherd Boys. — Character of the Rocks. — Wells of good Water called Hannek and Prasoli. — The Manner the Shageea salute. — Coptic Christian Church. — Arrival at the Town of Meroueh. — Hieroglyphics on a Slab in the Castle 123 CHAPTER XI. Antiquities of Gibel el Birkel. — Description and Dimensions of the Mountain. — Temple built by the Tirhaka of the Bible. — Various other interesting Remains and Temples. — Pyramids. — Circular and pointed Arch invented in Ethiopia 134 CHAPTER XII. Present Inhabitants of Birkel. — Funeral Ceremonies in the Mahometan Burial-grounds. — Name of Rameses II. or Sesostris. — Description of the present State of the Country. — Indigo Manufactories. — The Shageea Tribe. — One of their Meleks. — Pyramids of Nouri, dilapidated State. — Curious Construction of one. — General Dimensions. — Antiquity. — Comparison between the ancient and modern Buildings of Ethiopia. — Return to Meroueh. — Turkish Manner of being paid for Services. — Voyage down the Nile. — Numerous Villages. — Shageea Tribe. — Intoxication, Learning, &c. — Various Villages and Islands. — Effects of the Climate and other Peculiarities of this Country on the Character of the People. — Noble Manners of the Arabs. — Dongolah Agous. — Probable Site of Napata. — Negro Slaves. — Effects of the Cruelty of their Owners. — Encroachments of the Desert. — Cultivation. — Peasants 160 CHAPTER XIII. Visit to the Governor. — Extent of his Government. — Indigo. — Water Wheels. — Population. — Taxes. — Prices of Produce. — Oasis of Dongolah, called El Gab. — Route to Kordofan. — Information about that Country. — Baneful Climate. — Captain Gordon. — Arab Tribes of Kordofan. — General Appearance of New Dongolah. — The Bazaar. — Curious Use of Ointment. — Merchandise. — The Bazaar. — Slave Market. — Commerce carried on by Barter. — Curious Manner of effecting Sales. — Dongolah Goldsmith. — Auctioneers. — Various Arab Tribes. — Costumes. — Women, the Elegance of their Attire. — Breaking of the _Rat_. — Giraffe. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Elephants 176