Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
[33] I dismissed my conductors of course. I have not yet mentioned the
post charges. While I travelled with M. Kasloff, they were defrayed by
him, and I did not pay my share, till I came to quit him. The reader is
intitled to a note upon the subject, which I shall here give him.
These charges are called in Russia _progonn_: a courier pays two
kopecks per werst for every horse, and other travellers four kopecks.
A kopeck is equal to a French _sou_, or an English halfpenny. In
Kamtschatka and Siberia the expence is less by one half, and as dogs
are almost invariably made use of in the peninsula, they are charged at
so much per _podvod_, or team of five dogs. Three podvods, or fifteen
dogs, are considered as equal to one horse in Siberia, for which a
courier pays a kopeck per werst, and other travellers two kopecks.
[34] These compliments do not, as with us, consist of mere ceremony
and cold civilities, accompanied with unmeaning words. The assembly is
no sooner seated, than brandy is introduced. A domestic distributes
three enormous bumpers to every individual, one of which would be
sufficient in any other country to make a man give in. Here it is
merely a provokative to double and triple the dose. A Koriac toper
considers it in no other light, and when it is presented to him, he
gives a complacent smile to the whole company, and particularly to the
master of the house, to whom also he makes a slight inclination of
the head. He then swallows, one upon another, without the least sign
of repugnance, three glasses filled as fast as possible. The children
drink it with as little aversion. I have seen a child six or seven
years old take off one of these glasses, without making a wry face.
To this copious distribution of brandy M. Gaguen never fails to add
some presents of iron, stuffs, or tobacco, and carries his attention
so far as to consult the taste and wants of each individual. The
Tchouktchis, and the fixed Koriacs, are treated with similar kindness.
By this means he has gradually tamed these savage minds, and gained
an influence and ascendency over them: a poor recompence for the
sacrifices he is obliged to make to provide these liberalities, the
expence of which falls solely upon himself, and from the dearness of
every article in this country, must be a heavy burthen to him.
[35] Sometimes the lower part of this rein is furnished with little
sharp pieces of bone, which, with the smallest shock, serve to goad
forward the animals that are untractable, and are continually employed
for that purpose. In harnessing the rein deer, they are careful not to
put on the right the beast that is trained to draw on the left, the
sledge would otherwise, instead of advancing, be instantly overturned.
This trick, however, the Koriacs frequently play upon the Russians, who
they think have treated them ill.
[36] They had indeed quitted the road, but had only dragged me about
fifty paces from it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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