Morocco itself is a city of profound gloom, where the Moor indulges to
the utmost his taciturn disposition, and melancholy fatalism. It is,
therefore, not an enchanting abode for Europeans, who, whilst there
waiting on the Emperor, are obliged constantly to ride about to preserve
their health, or they would die of the suffocating stench in the Jew's
millah, or quarter. But, in taking this equestrian exercise, they are
not unfrequently insulted. An ungallant cavalier deliberately stopped
Mrs. Elton by riding up against her.
The lady spurred her horse and caught with her feet a portion of his
light burnouse, dragging it away. He was only prevented riding after and
cutting her down, by one of the Emperor's secretaries, who was passing
by at the time.
Mr. Elton had a fine black horse to ride upon. The populace were so
savage at seeing an infidel mounted upon so splendid an animal, that
they hooted: "Curse you, Infidel! dismount you dog!"
These instances shew the sauciness of the vulgar, and are a fair example
of the conduct of the Moors. I am told by Barbary Jews, it would be next
to impossible for a Christian to walk without disguise in broad daylight
at Fez. Not so much from the hostility of the populace, as from their
indecent and vehement curiosity. However, in these cases, I am obliged
to give the testimony of others. Mr. Cohen, when travelling through the
interior, assumes the character of a quack doctor, the best passport in
all these countries. Practising as he goes, he manages to get enough to
bear his charges on the way.
Oliver Goldsmith piped, but in Morocco the traveller and stranger
physics his way. To Europeans, Mr. Cohen gives this advice--"Never to
stay more than one night at any place." "Mr. Davidson," he says,
"stopped so long at Wadnoun, that all the Desert, as far as Timbuctoo,
heard of his projects and travels, and were determined to waylay and
plunder him."
But, on the contrary, with respect to my own experience in the Desert,
the people appeared equally hostile or offended at my taking them by
surprise. Desert travelling after all is mostly an affair of luck. Six
travellers might be sent to Timbuctoo and three return, and three be
murdered, and yet the three who were murdered might have been as prudent
and as skilful as the three who were successful. The Maroquine
Government often shew a perfect Chinese jealousy of Europeans travelling
in the interior. When Doctor Willshire, brother of the Consul, returned
from Morocco, the Government gave orders that "he should be taken
directly to Mogador, and not be allowed to turn to the right hand or to
the left, to collect old stones or herbs." This lynx-eyed government
imagined they saw in Doctor Willshire's botanical and mineralogical
rambles, a design of spying out the powers and resources of the country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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