The palace of the Sultan is not large, but is handsome. There are
numerous baths, and an hospital for the mad or incurable. The population
was estimated, not long ago, at 88,000 souls, of which there were 60,000
Moors and Arabs (the Moors being chiefly immigrants from Spain), 10,000
Berbers, 8,000 Jews, and 10,000 Negroes. But this amount has been
reduced to 40,000, or even 30,000; and the probability is, the present
population of Fez does not by any means, exceed 50,000, if it reaches
that number. Nearly all the Jews reside in the new city, which, by its
position, dominates the old one. The inhabitants of Fez, in spite of
their learning and commerce, are distinguished for their fanaticism; and
an European, without an escort of troops, cannot walk in the streets
unless disguised. It was lately the head-quarters of the fanatics who
preached "the holy war," and involved the Emperor in hostilities with
the French.
The immense trade of every kind carried on at Fez gives it almost the
air of an European city. In the great square, called Al-Kaisseriah, is
exhibited all the commerce of Europe and Africa--nay, even of the whole
world. The crowd of traffickers here assemble every day as at a fair.
Fez has two annual caravans; one leaves for Central Africa, or
Timbuctoo; and another for Mecca, or the caravan of pilgrims. The two
great stations and rendezvous points of the African caravan are Tafilett
and Touat. The journey from Fez to Timbuctoo occupies about ninety days.
The Mecca caravan proceeds the same route as far as Touat, and then
turns bank north-east to Ghadames, Fezzan, and Angelah, and thence to
Alexandria, which it accomplishes in four or five, to six months. All
depends on the inclination of the Shereef, or Commandant, of the
caravan; but the journey from Fez to Alexandria cannot, by the quickest
caravan, be accomplished in much less time than three months and a half,
or one hundred days. The value of the investments in this caravan has
been estimated at a million of dollars; for the faithful followers of
the Prophet believe, with us, that godliness is profitable in the life
that now is, as well as in that which is to come.
Fez is surrounded with a vast wall, but which is in decay. What is this
decay! It applies almost to every Moorish city and public building in
North Africa. And yet the faith of the false prophet is as strong as
ever, and with time and hoary age seems to strike its roots deeper into
the hearts of its simple, but enthusiastic and duped devotees!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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