We saw them making oil, which was in a very primitive fashion. The
oil-makers were nearly all women. The olives were first ground between
stones worked by the hands, until they became of the consistence of
paste, which was then taken down to the stream and put into a wooden tub
with water. On being stirred up, the oil rises to the top, which they
skim off with their hands and put into skins or jars; when thus skimmed,
they pass the grounds or refuse through a sieve, the water running off;
the stones and pulp are then saved for firing. But in this way much of
the oil is lost, as may be seen by the greasy surface of the water below
where this rude process is going on. Among the oil-women, we noticed a
girl who would have been very pretty and fascinating had she washed
herself instead of the olives. We entered an Arab house inhabited by
some twenty persons, chiefly women, who forthwith unceremoniously took
off our caps, examined very minutely all our clothes with an excited
curiosity, laughed heartily when we put our hands in our pockets, and
wished to do the same, and then pulled our hair, looking under our faces
with amorous glances. On the hill overlooking the town, we also met two
women screaming frightfully and tearing their faces; we learned that one
of them had lost her child. The women make the best blankets here with
handlooms, and do the principal heavy work.
We saw some hobaras, also a bird called getah, smaller than a partridge,
something like a ptarmigan, with its summer feathers, and head shaped
like a quail. The Bey sent two live ones to R., besides a couple of
large jerboahs of this part, called here, _gundy_. They are much like
the guinea-pig, but of a sandy colour, and very soft and fine, like a
young hare. The jerboahs in the neighbourhood of Tunis are certainly
more like the rat. The other day, near the south-west gates, we fell in
with a whole colony of them--which, however, were the lesser animal, or
Jerd species--who occupied an entire eminence to themselves, the
sovereignty of which seemed to have been conceded to them by the Bey of
Tunis. They looked upon us as intruders, and came very near to us, as if
asking us why we had the audacity to disturb the tranquillity of their
republic. The ground here in many places was covered with a substance
like the rime of a frosty morning; it tastes like salt, and from it they
get nitre. Captain B. thinks it was salt. The water which we drank was
brought from Ghafsa: the Bey drinks water brought from Tunis. We marched
across a vast plain, covered with the salt just mentioned, which was
congealed in shining heaps around bushes or tufts of grass, and among
which also scampered a few hares. We encamped at a place called
Ghorbatah. Close to the camp was a small shallow stream, on each side of
which grew many canes; we bathed in the stream, and felt much refreshed.
The evening was pleasantly cool, like a summer evening in England, and
reminded us of the dear land of our birth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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