Numerous plains in North Africa are covered with saline and nitrous efflorescence; to the presence of these minerals is owing the inexhaustible fertility of the soil, which hardly ever receives any manure, only a little stubble being occasionally burnt. We saw flights of the getah, and of another bird called the gedur, nearly the same, but rather lighter in colour. When they rise from the ground, they make a curious noise, something like a partridge. We were unusually surprised by a flight of locusts, not unlike grasshoppers, of about two inches long, and of a reddish colour. Saw also gazelles. Halted by the dry bed of a river, called Furfouwy. A pool supplied the camp: in the mountains, at a distance, there was, however, a delicious spring, a stream of liquid pearls in these thirsty lands! A bird called mokha appeared now and then; it is about the size of a nightingale, and of a white light-brown colour. We seldom heard such sweet notes as this bird possesses. Its flying is beautifully novel and curious; it runs on the ground, and now and then stops and rises about fifteen feet from the surface, giving, as it ascends, two or three short slow whistles, when it opens its graceful tail and darts down to the ground, uttering another series of melodious whistles, but much quicker than when it rises. We continued our march over nearly the same sort of country, but all was now flat as far as the eye could see, the hills being left behind us. About eight miles from Furfouwy, we came to a large patch of date-trees, watered by many springs, but all of them hot. Under the grateful shade of the lofty palm were flowers and fruits in commingled sweetness and beauty. Here was the village of Dra-el-Hammah, surrounded, like all the towns of the Jereed, with date-groves and gardens. The houses were most humbly built of mud and bricks. After a scorching march, we encamped just beyond, having made only ten miles. Saw quantities of bright soft spar, called talc. Here also the ground was covered with a saline effloresence. Near us were put up about a dozen blue cranes, the only birds seen to-day. A gazelle was caught, and others chased. We particularly observed huge patches of ground covered with salt, which, at a distance, appeared just like water. CHAPTER X. Toser.--The Bey's Palace.--Blue Doves.--The town described.--Industry of the People.--Sheikh Tahid imprisoned and punished.--Leghorn.--The Boo-habeeba.--A Domestic Picture.--The Bey's Diversions.--The Bastinado.-- Concealed Treasure.--Nefta.--The Two Saints.--Departure of Santa Maria.-- Snake-charmers.--Wedyen.--Deer Stalking.--Splendid view of the Sahara.-- Revolting Acts.--Qhortabah.--Ghafsa.--Byrlafee.--Mortality among the Camels--Aqueduct.--Remains of Udina.--Arrival at Tunis.--The Boab's Wives.--Curiosities.--Tribute Collected.--Author takes leave of the Governor of Mogador, and embarks for England.--Rough Weather.--Arrival in London.