Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I have already had the honour to inform you, that I had settled
at Malta with a Greek, for my passage to Cyprus on board his
ship. A few hours before my departure, the captain called upon me
to tell me that the owner of the ship had changed his mind as to
its destination, that he himself had been ordered to go to Tripoly,
but that a friend of his, whom at the same time he introduced to me,
was on the point of sailing in his stead for Cyprus, and that he had
already put my baggage on board this other ship. Though displeased
with so preremptory a proceeding, I had no objection to change my
conveyance, both captains being known to Mr. Lee; but the very moment
I was embarking, the new captain told me that he was not quite sure
whether he should touch at Cyprus, his ship being properly bound for
Acre. I had now the option to wait at Malta, perhaps another month
or two, for an opportunity for Cyprus or the coast of Syria, or to
run the chance of disembarking at a place where there was no person
whatever to whom I could apply for advice or protection. Luckily an
Arab of Acre, then at Malta, happened to be known to Mr. Barker,
jun.; in half an hour’s time a letter for a merchant at Acre,
with another, in case of need, for the Pasha, were procured, and
I embarked and sailed the same morning, in the hope of finding,
when arrived at Acre, a passage for Tripoly (Syria), or for
Latikia. However, we were no sooner out of sight of the island,
than it was made known to me that the real destination of the ship
was the coast of Caramania, that the captain had orders to touch
first at the port of Satalia, then at that of Tarsus; and that if
grain could not be purchased at an advantageous price at either
of these places, in that case only he was to proceed to Acre. My
remonstrances with the captain would have been vain: nothing was
left to me but to cultivate his good graces, and those of my fellow
travellers, as the progress of my journey must depend greatly upon
their good offices. The passengers consisted, to my astonishment,
of a rich Tripolitan merchant, who owned part of the ship, two other
Tripolines, and two Negroe slaves. I introduced myself amongst them
as an Indian Mohammedan merchant, who had been from early years in
England, and was now on his way home; and I had the good fortune to
make my story credible enough to the passengers, as well as to the
ship’s company. During the course of our voyage numerous questions
were put to me relative to India, its inhabitants, and its language,
which I answered as well as I could: whenever I was asked for a
specimen of the Hindu language, I answered in the worst dialect of
the Swiss German, almost unintelligible even to a German, and which,
in its guttural sounds, may fairly rival the harshest utterance of
Arabic. Every evening we assembled upon deck to enjoy the cooling
sea breeze, and to smoke our pipes. While one of the sailors was
amusing his companions with story-telling, I was called upon to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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