Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
The bay is an inlet into the mountains of Caramania, which surround
it on the east and west side. Towards the north, where a cliff
about fifty feet high overhangs the bay, the country is level. The
port of Satalia is at the foot of the cliff, in the bottom of the
bay. The mountains on the western side, which we passed very near,
are of considerable height. Their highest ridge was on the top
covered with snow. I observed one of those mountains apparently
higher than the rest, whose foot touched the sea, on the sides
of which the snow was sparingly spread down to one third of the
mountain’s height; and this was on the 18th of June. They are all
barren; their shape and whole appearance is much the same as that
of the African mountains in the Straits of Gibraltar. The town of
Satalia is built partly upon the cliff, partly in the plain which
the cliff terminates; its gardens extend to about three or four
miles along the rocky shore. The town is separated from the port
and the few buildings which surround the landing place, by a wall
constructed on the top of the cliff; a narrow passage leads from
the beach up to the town, the gate of which is regularly shut at
sunset. The entrance of the harbour seems to have been defended
formerly by two towers, the ruins of which are still extant. The
inner harbour is small; a Turkish guard ship, four Arab vessels
from Damiat, five or six small country sailing boats, and our own
ship, crowded the whole space between the two ruined towers. There
is good anchorage in the larger outer bay, but no shelter against
the southerly winds. Two fine streams of spring water descend the
cliff on both sides of the landing place. As soon as we approached
the harbour a Turkish police boat came alongside of us, and the
Tripoline immediately went with the officer on shore. After we had
come to anchor we were informed that the plague was in the town,
and that the watch ship moored near us had two sick on board; and
though nobody had died in the town within the last fortnight, yet
all the principal Christian and Turkish merchants had left their
town houses, and were still living in their gardens. Of course
our captain would not allow any body to go on shore, and pressed
the Tripoline to return on board; but the latter having already
recovered once from the plague, thought himself quite secure from
any second attack, and treated the captain’s remonstrances very
lightly. He remained four days on shore, trading all the while for
his own account, without finding grain to purchase for the ship’s
cargo. During that time I went once on shore to see two bullocks
killed and weighed, which had been bought for the ship’s company;
we purchased besides some other fresh provisions, the whole at
very low prices: the two bullocks at fifty-five piastres, fowls
at eight paras, or about two-pence halfpenny each; seven eggs
for one penny, &c. &c. The Turks laughed much at the captain’s
continually warning them off from our persons, (yet it seems that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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