Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
_March 2d._ I departed from Derr with an old Arab, named Mohammed
Abou Saad (محمّد ابو سَعد), one of the Bedouins
called Kerrarish (قراريش). These Bedouins, a remote branch
of the Ababde, pasture their cattle on the uninhabited banks of the
river, and on its islands, from Derr southward, as far as Mahass and
Dongola, where they are said to be more numerous than in Nubia. They
are poor; their tents are formed of mats made of the leaves of
palm-trees, with a partition in the middle to separate the women’s
apartment; but, notwithstanding their poverty, they refuse to give
their daughters in marriage to the Nubians, and have thus preserved
their race pure. They pride themselves, and justly, in the beauty of
their girls. The Kerrarish are, for the most part, in the service
of the governors of Nubia, to whom they are attached as a corps of
guards, and guides, and accompany them in their journies through
their dominions. Whilst the father and grown up sons are absent,
the mother and daughters remain in their solitary tent; for they
generally live in separate families, and not in encampments. These
Bedouins receive occasional presents from the chiefs of Nubia,
and such of them as cultivate the islands in the river are exempted
from taxes. They are a very honest and hospitable people, and more
kind in their dispositions, than any of the inhabitants of Nubia
whom I met with. Those who are not in the employ of the governors,
gain their livelihood either by acting as guides, or in collecting
the senna in the eastern mountain, which they sell to the merchants
of Esne at about £1. per camel’s load (from four to five hundred
weight). Numbers of them also travel from Wady Halfa, on the Nile,
three days journies into the western desert, and collect there
the Shabb, (شبّ) or nitre, which they exchange with the same
merchants for Dhourra; giving two measures of the former for three
equal measures of the latter. The nitre is found on digging only a
few inches deep, and covers a space of several miles in extent. This
is, however, a perilous traffic, as the inhabitants of Kubbanýe,
a village about twelve miles north of Assouan, also engage in it;
these are eleven days in reaching the nitre pits, and whenever the
two parties meet, a bloody conflict ensues. Between Wady Halfa and
the Shabb, one day’s distance from the latter, is a spring where
is some verdure, and where a few Doum trees grow North of the Shabb,
one day, in the direction of the great Oasis, is a similar spring,
called Nary (ناري), with many date trees growing round it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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