Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
After having rode along by the date groves, and well built peasants
houses, for about half an hour from Derr, we ascended the eastern
mountain, the road along the river side being interrupted by the
rocks. On the top of the mountain is a wide plain, covered with
small fragments of loose sand-stone; and bordered on the east,
at about two hours distance, by a higher range of mountains. We
continued along this plain in the direction of W. S. W., until two
hours and a half from Derr, when we descended again to the banks of
the river, near the village Kette (قتّه), where we crossed the
dry bed of a branch of the stream, and alighted on an island, at
the tent of my guide, where I remained for the night. These people,
who all speak Arabic as well as the Nouba language, are quite black,
but have nothing of the Negro features. The men generally go naked,
except a rag twisted round their middle; the women have a coarse
shirt thrown about them. Both sexes suffer the hair of the head to
grow; they cut it above the neck, and twist it all over in thin
ringlets, in a way similar to that of the Arab of Souakin, whose
portrait is given by Mr. Salt in Lord Valentia’s Travels. Their
hair is very thick, but not woolly; the men never comb it, but
the women sometimes do; the latter wear on the back part of the
head, ringlets, or a small ornament, made of mother of pearl and
Venetian glass beads. Both men and women grease their head and neck
with butter whenever they can afford it; this custom answers two
purposes; it refreshes the skin heated by the sun, and keeps off
vermin. The young boys go quite naked; but the grown up girls tie
round their waist a string of leather tassels, much resembling the
feather ornaments worn for a like purpose by the south sea islanders.
_March 3d._ I sent my guide back to Derr, to purchase more Dhourra,
in order that we might give some of it to the camels, in those
places where no wild herbs grow; and on his return we set out. Our
road lay along a grove of date trees, and an uninterrupted row of
houses, for two hours, when the perpendicular rock reached close
to the river. At the height of about sixty or eighty feet above the
footpath, I observed from below, the entrance to an apartment hewn
in the rock, but without any road leading to it, the rock being
there quite perpendicular. In like manner I have seen sepulchres
cut in the rock of Wady Mousa in Arabia Petræa, which can only be
approached by means of ladders, forty or fifty feet in height. In
two hours and a half we reached the castle of Ibrim (ابريم),
which is now completely in ruins, the Mamelouks having sustained
a siege in it last year, and in their turn besieged the troops of
Ibrahim Beg, in the course of which operations, the walls were
battered with the few cannon that were found in the castle, and
many of the houses of the village levelled with the ground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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