Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
In no part of the Eastern world, in which I have travelled, have
I ever found property in such perfect security as in Ibrim. The
inhabitants leave the Dhourra in heaps on the field, without a watch,
during the night; their cattle feed on the banks of the river without
any one to tend them; and the best parts of the household furniture
are left all night under the palm-trees around the dwelling; in
short, the people agreed in saying, that theft was quite unknown in
their territory. It ought, however, to be added, that the Nubians,
in general, are free from the vice of pilfering.
From Ibrim we crossed the mountain, and at one hour’s distance
from it descended to the river side, at Wady Shubak (شُباق),
whither most of the inhabitants of Ibrim retired, after the passage
of the Mamelouks. We slept here, at the house of the children of
the Aga whom the Mamelouks murdered. Wherever I alighted, a number
of peasants assembled, in the evening, at the house; I always gave
out that I had business of a public nature with the two chiefs,
who were stationed to the south of Sukkot, and being accompanied by
a man known to be attached to the Kashefs, no one dared to create
the least obstacle to my journey. Indeed, travellers in Nubia,
in general, have little to fear from the ill will of the peasants;
it is the rapacious spirit of the governors that is to be dreaded.
_March 4th._ The grove of date trees continues to the south of
Shubak. I found many of the houses abandoned; and at every step were
graves. The Nubians place an earthen vessel by the side of every
grave, which they fill with water at the moment the deceased is
interred, and leave it there: the grave itself is covered with small
pebbles of various colours, and two large palm leaves are stuck into
the ground at either extremity; the symbol of victory thus becoming,
in Nubia, that of death. Near Shubak are some mounds of hewn stones,
indicating the remains of an ancient edifice. One hour from Ibrim
brought us to Wady Bostan (وادي بُستان). The soil, fit
for culture, is here very narrow; the eastern mountain is distant
about one hour; between it and the plain is a rising spot of ground
covered with loose sand-stones. The shape of the insulated mountains
which compose this part of the chain, is remarkable; most of them
resembling cones flattened on the top, or perfect pyramids; and when
viewed from afar, they appear so regular, that they seem to be the
work of man. In two hours and a half we came to the village of Tosko
(تسقه), the southern limits of Wady Ibrim. In the rocky plain
east of Tosko stands an insulated, shattered rock, with several
sepulchres excavated in it; these are supported on the inside by
low square pillars: in one of them, a vaulted passage leads out
to a back entrance. They are of very rude workmanship; and have no
sculptures upon the walls, except the figure of the cross. Near the
rock are considerable mounds of rubbish. It is matter of surprise,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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