Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
that these are the only sepulchres met with in the eastern hills,
from Assouan to this place: the sand-stone rock might have easily
been excavated, as has been done in numerous places in Egypt. Tosko
continues for about one hour. Three hours and a half, passed over the
mountain. Four and a half, Ermenne (ارمنّه), a fine village,
belonging to the territory of Nubia. Our road had been till now,
in the direction of S. W. From hence, southward, we travelled
W. S. W. Five hours and a half, again passed over the mountain,
which is close to the river. Six hours, Formundy (فرمندي), a
poor village, extending for several miles. The Nubians here grow a
little cotton, small plantations of which are every where met with
from Kenne, in Upper Egypt, as far as Dongola. The women weave the
cotton into coarse shirts, or sell it for Dhourra to the merchants of
Derr. Seven hours and a half, we passed the ruins of a Greek church,
which had been used in later times as a mosque. Its walls, for half
their height, are constructed of small stones, and the upper part of
bricks burnt in the sun; there are many names of visitors written
on the white plaister; the writing is of the latest time of the
Lower Empire. The river here has many windings; and this part of it
is reputed a favourite haunt of the crocodile. I saw myself half a
dozen of them lying close together on a sand-bank. All the Nubians,
as well as the people of Upper Egypt, eat the flesh of this animal
whenever they can catch it, which is, however, very seldom.[26]
Beyond the Greek church, the road again crosses the mountain, on the
other side of which, at eight hours and a half, is the Wady Fereyg
(فريك). The different villages comprised under the collective
term Wady, are generally separated from the Wadys on their northern
or southern side by a part of the mountain projecting close to the
river, which thus forms a natural division. Nine hours and a half,
long after sunset, we alighted, at the house of one of the wives of
Hassan Kashef, where I slept. Our day’s march, reckoning by the
length of the day, must have been at least ten hours and a half. My
watch had unfortunately stopped, from the dust having penetrated
into it. My day’s march in Nubia is therefore calculated only by
the sun’s height, and the length of the day; I may have in this
way erred as to partial distances from one village to another;
but the entire day’s route will generally be found correct.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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