Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
After we had left Satalia, we sailed for three days along the coast
of Caramania, and kept our course constantly ten leagues distant
from the shore. The chain of snowy mountains seems to continue in a
direction parallel with the shore. At the foot of these mountains
I observed every evening thunder clouds and lightning; during our
stay in the port of Satalia we were twice refreshed by heavy showers,
though it was now the season when it very seldom rains in other parts
of the Levant. I suppose that the vicinity of the snowy mountains,
which rapidly condense the copious vapours arising from the heated
earth, give rise to these clouds. On the 26th, late at night, we
anchored in the roads of Mersin, a collection of villages so called,
situated to the west of Tarsus, about fourteen miles distant from
it. The next morning some of us went with the Tripoline on shore,
where we found a party of about twenty Turkmans, encamped under
and around a single tent; they were selling grain, with which the
buyers loaded several camels. After a short parley the chief of the
party led us to his village, about two miles distant. We remained
there the whole day in the chief’s house, couched upon carpets,
which were spread upon a terrace sheltered from the sun by the
shade of two large mulberry trees. We returned to our ship in the
evening; and spent the next four days in the same manner with these
hospitable people.
An Aga is at the head of this Turkman tribe; he commands about
twenty-five villages, over each of which he appoints a chief
to collect the revenue, which is equally divided between the
Chief and the Aga. Many of these chiefs are Greeks, who by their
long residence with the Turkmans have completely adopted their
manners. Their dress is the same, excepting the red cap, which the
Greeks do not wear; and but for that mark it would be impossible for
a stranger to distinguish them from their masters. The Turkmans are
continually moving about on horseback from one village to another;
they are tolerably well mounted and well armed, each with a gun,
two pistols, a poignard, and a sabre. They never go but armed, but
it seems to be chiefly from ostentation, for they live at peace
with the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages, have nothing
to fear from straggling Arab tribes, and have no opportunity of
attacking travellers or caravans, which never pass this way. They
occupy the whole plain, which extends in length from Cape Bajarre
to beyond Tarsus; its breadth extends from the sea to the lowest
ridge of the mountains of Caramania, and varies from four to five or
ten miles. This plain, at least as much as I saw of it in my way to
Tarsus, is for the greater part sown with barley and wheat; where it
is left uncultivated, numerous herds of buffaloes and fine cattle
feed upon the wild grass. Wild capers grow in great abundance. I
found in several rivulets small tortoises, and amongst the ruins
of deserted houses we got here and there sight of a zerboa. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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