Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
The governor of Sukkot had left Kolbe early in the morning, to go in
search of a cow that was due to him, as tribute, from the chiefs of
the Omsherifs in Batn el Hadjar; I therefore breakfasted with his
slaves, and pursued my journey. Kolbe appears to be an artificial
island; a deep canal, too regular to be the work of nature, runs
along the western side of it, and is dry in the spring season,
so that we could at present wade across it. On the west side of
this canal is a recess in the mountain, where is a plain that
bears traces of former cultivation. There is a small village upon
the island, and several ruins of brick buildings, one of which I
entered, and was not a little surprised to find myself in a Greek
chapel: figures of saints were painted in gaudy colours upon the
walls, and the names of many visitors or pilgrims inscribed. The
colours of the paintings are extremely well preserved, probably
owing to the extreme dryness of the air of Nubia. I found the date
{ΥC} to several of the names. It should seem from the quantities of
brick ruins upon the islands of Batn el Hadjar, that the builders of
those edifices were unable to hew the rocks of the neighbouring
mountains, which are throughout of considerable hardness. In
proceeding towards the northern limits of the island, I found a deep
and wide well, lined on the inside, up to the top, with large stones.
The rock on this side of the river is granite, crossed by strata of
quartz three or four inches in thickness.
From Kolbe we rode two hours and a half to Wady Okame, in the
direction of N. N. E.; in the Batn el Hadjar the Wadys on both
sides of the river bear the same name. We continued four hours
in the Wady, where we saw only some ruined houses. From thence
the road lies over high sandy hills. Six hours and a half, Wady
Sonk: the sands here descend into the river like torrents; the
northerly winds blew the sand directly in our faces, and greatly
annoyed us. We supped at Wady Sonk, at the hut of a poor Arab woman,
whose husband had gone to Derr to sell a few goats, and bring home
Dhourra in return. A plant called Kharoua (خروع), which is also
found in Upper Egypt, growing to the height of four or five feet, is
cultivated here, as well as in several parts of the Batn el Hadjar;
a medicinal oil is extracted from its fruit, with which the people
anoint their hair. The situation of most of these Wadys among the
rocks and tamarisk trees is delightful, especially wherever the
water is collected in little pools; but the gnats frequent the
pools in such numbers, that we could get no rest for them, and we
therefore quitted our station, when the moon rose, and halted again,
half an hour farther, on the sands of the upper plain, at the foot
of the mountain called Djebel Lamoule. We heard here the noise of
the river rushing over the rocks at the foot of the western Lamoule.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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