Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
door leads from the pronaos into the cella; in the centre of the
cella are two massy pillars, and on either side a small apartment,
which was probably a place of sepulture; in the floor of each are
high stone benches, which may have served for supporting mummies, or
perhaps as tables for embalming the bodies deposited in the temple;
the floors have been broken up in search of treasure, and are now
covered with rubbish. Behind the cella, and communicating with it
by a door, is the adytum, on each side of which is a small chamber,
also opening into the cella, exactly like those in the temple at
Derr. In the posterior wall of the adytum are four statues, above
the human size, seated; and in the centre of the floor is a large
cubical stone, the use of which I cannot determine; its sides are
quite smooth, and without any kind of sculpture. It may, perhaps,
have served as the pedestal of a statue; or is it an inverted
sarcophagus? Of the sculptures and hieroglyphics with which the
walls of this temple were covered, very little is now discernible,
the sand-stone being of a very friable nature, and soon falling
to decay; added to this, the walls are quite black with smoke
from the fires kindled by the neighbouring shepherds, who often
pass the night in the temple with their cattle; enough, however,
still remains to shew that the sculptures are rudely executed. The
colossal figures are in good preservation, particularly those of
the pronaos; those in the portico have been mutilated.
While inspecting the interior apartments of this temple with a
lighted candle, for they receive no light but what is communicated
through the outer gate, I was joined in the adytum by the Shikh of
Gyrshe, who had hurried after me, on seeing us take the road to the
building. He begged me to give him half the treasure I had found,
or at least, a handful; but he was obliged to be contented with a
piece of wax candle. He shewed me the place where the Englishmen
(Messrs. Legh and Smelt), who had been here before me, found, as he
asserted, an immense treasure, with which they loaded their vessel;
one of the peasants had seen the gold! Similar tales are often
spread abroad; every peasant swears to their truth; and singular
as it may appear, all the inhabitants of Egypt, notwithstanding
the long residence of the French in that country, and the continual
passage of travellers, are still persuaded that the ancient temples
are visited for no other purpose than to search for treasure.
I am uncertain whether Gyrshe, or the more northern Dandour,
represents the ancient _Tutzis_. The spot upon which the temple
just described stands, is called by the natives Djorn Hosseyn
(جُرن حسين).
From Gyrshe, northward, the shore is very narrow; we rode over
the rocky mountain, which is close to the river, and, at the end
of six hours from Dakke, alighted at Merye (مريه), where we
slept. There are only a few families in the western Merye; but the
western Gyrshe is well inhabited.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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