Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Arrived at Suedieh, I found myself very uncomfortably situated. I had
lost my friend the Tripoline, and though he had warmly recommended
me to the master of the Jackdur, yet I found the crew of the vessel
to be thievous and treacherous; they spread the rumour amongst the
people of Suedieh that I was a Frank, and as the ship was immediately
to return to Tarsus, I expected to find myself completely at the
mercy of the inhabitants; amongst whom, as well as amongst the crew,
there was nobody who understood the Italian, or, as they called it,
the Latin tongue. I remained on board the ship that day and the
following; and was bargaining for a horse and mules to take me to
Antakia, when, to my great satisfaction, a caravan from Aleppo came
down to the coast with Indian goods; I soon got acquainted with
the muleteers, and made my bargain with one of them for the whole
journey, from Suedieh to Aleppo. He first asked fifty piastres per
Kantar قنطار (about five-hundred pounds English weight). I
got him down to thirty, and was afterwards informed at Aleppo,
that I should not have paid more than twenty-five. It is a great
point gained by travellers in these countries, if they can make with
their mule or camel drivers the usual bargain of the country. If the
muleteer overcharges them, he makes a boast of it wherever he goes,
the traveller is immediately known to be a person little conversant
with the customs of the country, and he may be sure to be dealt with
accordingly, in every respect, wherever the mule-driver accompanies
him. I was helping the servants to distribute my baggage into mules
loads, and to tie it round with cords, when the Aga sent for me. I
found him smoking his pipe in a miserable room, surrounded by his
people; entering the room I pulled off my slippers, and sat down
on the floor before him. I shall here remark that it is a custom
most strictly adhered to, never to sit down upon a carpet, or even
a mat, and in presence of a man of rank, not even upon the bare
floor, without pulling off the slippers, and if a person has but
one pair on his feet, which is the Moggrebyn and the Greek fashion,
he must sit down bare footed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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