Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
At noon, the camels were watered,[1] and knelt down by the side
of their respective loads. Just before the lading commenced, the
Ababde women appeared with earthen vessels in their hands, filled
with burning coals. They set them before the several loads, and
threw salt upon them. At the rising of the bluish flame, produced
by the burning of the salt, they exclaimed, “may you be blessed
in going and in coming.” The devil and every evil genius are thus,
they say, removed.
We were accompanied for about half an hour beyond the village
by all the women and children. My principal friend at Daraou,
Hadji Hosseyn el Aloüan (الحاج حسين العلوان), at
whose house I had lived, and who had obtained from me a variety
of presents, in making me believe that he intended to undertake
the journey in person, in which case he might have proved to me
a most useful companion on the road, had declared the day before,
that he should remain at Daraou; but his brother and his son Aly
joined the caravan, and their party formed the largest and most
wealthy party of the Fellah traders among us. The old man followed
us with his women to a distance from the village, and at parting,
recommended me to his relations; “he is your brother,” he said
to his son, “and there,” opening his son’s waistcoat, and
putting his hand upon his bosom, “there let him be placed:” a
way of recommendation much in use in the Arabian desert likewise,
where it has some meaning, but among these miserable Egyptians it has
become a mere form of speech. We then proceeded upon a sandy plain,
in great disorder, as it always happens upon the first setting out
of a journey. Many loads were badly laid on, several were thrown
off by the camels who had for some time been unused to them, and
we were obliged to encamp for the night in a small valley, with
shrubs in it, about two hours and a half to the S. S. E. of Daraou,
where we feasted upon the dainties which had been prepared by the
ladies of Daraou; large fires were lighted, and the whole night
was passed in singing and noise.
_3d March._ We departed early from our resting place, and entered
Wady Om Rokbe (وادي اُم رُكبه), a broad valley with
good pasture, which we followed for upwards of two hours; we then
ascended a steep hill, and after several ascents and descents,
encamped in a valley near the source of water called Abou Kebeyr
(ابو كبير), having proceeded to day about six hours, very slow
march There are a few trees in this valley; and water is found every
where by digging pits in the sand. The source of Abou Kebeyr which
yields a very scanty supply, had attracted some Ababde Bedouins from
whom we bought some sheep. The mountains we had traversed to day,
were all composed of flint.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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