Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
_14th March._ The fine shade afforded by the numerous Doum trees,
and the copious wells, render the Wady el Nabeh next to Haimar, and
Shigre, the most important position upon this route. Small caravans
generally stop here a few days, in going to Berber, in order to give
their camels a little time to repair their strength. It is supposed,
that the water of the Nabeh is peculiarly refreshing to them. It
certainly has strong purgative qualities. Large caravans however
find it impossible to remain here for more than one night, because
the drinkable water is but scanty. Our chiefs were the whole morning
consulting, what to do; we had a two days march to Shigre, and from
thence five days to the Nile at Berber. It was impossible to load the
animals with a quantity of water, sufficient for the whole journey,
yet we had no water to expect south of Shigre, and very little at
Shigre. There is another source called Nawarik (نواريق) in the
mountains to the S. E., four days and a half journey from El Nabeh,
and as many from Berber, which would have been an eligible route to
take. But none of our party were acquainted with the road, excepting
a Bisharye Arab, and the others were not willing to trust themselves
to his guidance. A third route was pointed out to me from Nabeh,
leading in a S. S. W. direction, to the Nile in three long days and a
half, but that part of the Nile is inhabited by the Arabs of Mograt,
who were enemies of our caravan, and whose chief, Naym, had lately
been killed by a Shikh of the Ababde. Upon such occasions as these,
every man gives his opinion, and mine was, that we should kill
our thirty-five asses, which required a daily supply of, at least,
fifteen water skins, that we should load the camels to the utmost of
their strength with water, and strike out a straight way through the
desert towards Berber, without touching at Shigre; in this manner we
might perform the journey in five forced marches. But the Arabs can
seldom be brought to take manly resolutions, upon such occasions,
generally consoling themselves with the hope of Allah Kerim, or
God’s bounty; so that the result of our deliberation was, that
we should follow the usual track. We repaired our water skins and
our sandals, refreshed ourselves with bathing in the cool wells,
and then set out. It was not without great apprehension that I
departed from this place. Our camels and asses carried water for
three or four days only, and I saw no possibility of escaping from
the dreadful effects of a want of water. In order to keep my ass
in good spirits, I took off the two small water skins with which I
had hitherto loaded him, and paid one of the Ababdes four dollars to
carry four small water skins as far as Berber; for I thought that if
the ass could carry me, I might bear thirst for two days at least,
but that if he should break down, I should certainly not be able to
walk one whole day without water in this hot season of the year. This
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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