Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
evening, for about one hour, we passed along the valley, and then
for two hours across a stony country (direction S. by E.), when we
stopped for the night in a narrow valley. I was overcome by fatigue,
my eyes had for several days been sore, and my reflections on our
melancholy situation kept me long awake. A camel overloaded with
water fell down this evening and broke its leg, by which accident
several water skins were burst. The camel was killed in the legal
way, by turning its head towards Mekka, and cutting its throat. Some
of our people remained behind, and overtook us at night with some
choice morsels of flesh, which they had cut from the carcass.
_15th March._ We set out before day break, were about one hour and
a half in crossing over a rocky district, and then reached a wide
sandy plain, called Gob el Kheyl (قُب الخيل), which has many
insulated granite rocks, similar in shape to those described on the
6th. After four hours march we halted at the entrance of Wady Tarfawy
(وادي طَرفاوي), so called from the Tarfa or tamarisk
tree, that grows there. The ground was covered also with the fine
Senna shrub, the verdure of which was quite a novel sight. The
pulse or fruit of the Senna had now come to its full maturity,
and supplied food to swarms of locusts. Many thorny tamarisks,
and a few Doum trees, also, grow here, and render the valley the
most pleasant of the whole route.
In general, I found the dreaded Nubian deserts, as far as Shigre at
least, of much less dreary appearance than the great Syrian desert,
and still less so than the desert of Suez and Tyh. We seldom passed
a day without meeting with trees and water, as far at least as
Shigre; they are much more frequent than on the caravan route from
Aleppo to Bagdad, or from Damascus to Medina. The flatness of the
Syrian desert may appear less horrid than the barren shaggy rocks
of the Nubian desert; but the latter has at least the advantage
of variety. As we arrived very early at our halting place in
the Wady Tarfawy, the camels were sent to a side valley, at the
distance of more than one hour and a half, to get some water from
a pool, the slight brackish taste of which makes it probable that,
besides the rain water collected in it, there is a spring at the
bottom. They returned soon after mid-day. Another camel, which
was pronounced unable to continue the journey, was killed to day,
and many of the eagles, called Quakham, quickly assembled to have
their share of the meat. Our Ababde guides had a quarrel to day
with the men from Daraou, from whom they endeavoured to extort some
additional payment. I was not sorry to see this dispute, hoping that
it might lead to a greater cordiality between me and the Ababde,
who might perhaps join their interests with mine against the common
adversary. The caravan set out again about four P. M. At the moment
of departure, the Arab who carried my water, brought me the largest
of the four skins, and told me that his camel was unable to carry it
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