Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
_March 22._ After partaking of a hearty breakfast, we proceeded,
late in the morning, over an extensive gravelly plain, intersected
by several Wadys or low grounds, running towards the river,
and in general bearing few trees. Our road was S. by W. At the
end of five hours we halted in one of the Wadys called Netyle
(وادي نَتيله). The foliage of the acacia trees under
which we encamped during the noon hours, is too scanty to give
much shade, and the Arabs with justice compare the traveller’s
endeavours to shelter himself from the burning sun under a Sant
tree, to the folly of placing full confidence in the promises
of the great; “Confide in his words as you do in the acacia’s
shade;” has become a proverbial saying (كلامه مثل ظِلّ
السَّنط). Ostriches are very numerous in this plain in several
places, and we saw this morning many broken pieces of their eggs. I
observed also some very large lizards, at least a foot in length from
head to tail. The wind was still southerly. I again enquired, as I
had often done before, whether my companions had often experienced
the Semoum (which we translate by the poisonous blast of the desert,
but which is nothing more than a violent south-east wind). They
answered in the affirmative, but none had ever known an instance
of its having proved fatal. Its worst effect is that it dries up
the water in the skins, and so far it endangers the traveller’s
safety. In these southern countries, however, water skins are made
of very thick cow-leather, which are almost impenetrable to the
Semoum. In Arabia and Egypt on the contrary the skins of sheep or
goats are used for this purpose, and I witnessed the effect of a
Semoum upon them, in going from Tor to Suez over land in June 1815,
when in one morning a third of the contents of a full water skin was
evaporated. I have repeatedly been exposed to the hot wind, in the
Syrian and Arabian deserts, in Upper Egypt and Nubia. The hottest
and most violent I ever experienced was at Suakin, yet even there
I felt no particular inconvenience from it, although exposed to all
its fury in the open plain. For my own part I am perfectly convinced
that all the stories which travellers or the inhabitants of the towns
of Egypt and Syria relate of the Semoum of the desert, are greatly
exaggerated, and I never could hear of a single well authenticated
instance of its having proved mortal either to man or beast. The fact
is that the Bedouins when questioned on the subject, often frighten
the townspeople with tales of men, and even of whole caravans having
perished by the effects of the wind, when upon closer enquiry made
by some person, whom they find not ignorant of the desert, they will
state the plain truth. I never observed that the Semoum blows close
to the ground, as commonly supposed, but always observed the whole
atmosphere appear as if in a state of combustion; the dust and sand
are carried high into the air, which assumes a reddish, or blueish,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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