Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Mr. Burckhardt remained two years and a half in Syria, making daily
additions to his practical knowledge of the Arabic language, and
to his experience of the character of Orientals, and of Mohammedan
society and manners. His principal residence was at Aleppo. Having
assumed the name of Ibrahim Ibn Abdallah at Malta, he continued to
bear it in Syria; but apprehensive of not having yet had sufficient
experience, thoroughly to act the part of a Mussulman, and finding
no necessity for such a disguise at Aleppo, he was not studious to
conceal his European origin, and wore only such a Turkish dress,
as is often assumed in Syria by English travellers, less for
the sake of concealment than to avoid occasional insult. Thus he
had the benefit of an unmolested intercourse with the Mussulman
population of Aleppo, at the same time that he was not prevented
from openly accepting the friendship and protection of Mr. Barker,
the British Consul, nor under the necessity of denying himself the
social resources afforded by the houses of the European residents;
especially those of Mr. Barker, and of Mr. Masseyk, formerly Dutch
Consul. Of his obligations to the former of these gentlemen, he
omitted no opportunity of bearing testimony.
Besides two short tours which he made from Aleppo, he was absent
from thence in the year 1810, for six months, during which time
he visited Palmyra, remained three months at Damascus, and from
thence made two journeys into the neighbouring districts; one
through the Libanus and Anti-Libanus, and the other through the
unexplored country of the Haouran, or Auranitis. After his final
departure from Aleppo, in February 1812, he again made some stay at
Damascus, and performed a second journey in the Haouran, including
a part of the ancient Decapolis. Upon quitting Damascus for Egypt,
he visited Tiberias and Nazareth, and from thence having crossed
to the Eastern side of the Jordan, proceeded through the countries
to the east and South of the Dead Sea, until he arrived at Wady
Mousa, where he had the satisfaction of discovering the remains of
a large ancient city, consisting of a great number of buildings and
monuments excavated in the rocks, a singularity which, added to the
testimony of ancient history, marks the place for the site of Petra,
the capital of Arabia Petræa. From Wady Mousa he pursued a westerly
course towards the capital of Egypt, across the valley of Araba,
and the desert of El Tyh.
A sketch of his travels in Syria is communicated in letters which he
addressed from time to time to Sir Joseph Banks, or to Mr. Hamilton,
Secretary of the Association. The following are extracts of the
most interesting parts of this correspondence.
_Aleppo, May 12,_ 1810.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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