Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
The Arab Shikh mentioned in my last kept true to his engagements only
during the two first days of our journey. Instead of conducting me,
on the third day, in person, to Hamah, he gave me one of his men
as a guide. Returning the next day towards the watering place seven
hours east of Hamah, where we had left the Shikh, we were attacked
and stript by a party of Mawáli Arabs, who, unfortunately for me,
happened to be engaged in a quarrel with the Aenezy tribe of the
Shikh. A watch and compass were the only articles I regretted to
have lost; as to cash, I had not a single farthing in my pocket. We
returned to the town, to refit ourselves as well as possible,
and then set out again the next night, to rejoin our chief. The
latter had however in the interval left the watering-place; we
were obliged to run after him in the Desert for thirty-six hours,
and finding him at last at another watering-place he declared to
me that he could not possibly conduct me himself any further,
because his people had very much pressed his return, afraid as
they were of the approaching Wahabi. In reply to my remonstrances,
he offered me another guide to take me to Tedmor, and from thence
to the Haouran. With this guide I reached Tedmor after a march of
thirty hours, and contemplated the wonders of the Palm city for
nearly two days. The Shikh of Tedmor, in consideration of my empty
purse, contented himself with taking my saddle from me. Leaving
Tedmor we reached by a forced march Kariatein in one day, and
from thence Yerud, a village about twelve hours to the N. E. of
Damascus. Duehy, the Arab chief, had passed there a few days before,
and knowing that my guide would likewise take that route, he had
left at the village-Shikh’s house, an open letter to my address,
in which he peremptorily told me not to proceed any farther in my
journey towards the Haouran, but to go direct to Damascus, because he
was determined to fly with his tribe away from the Wahabi. The fact
was, that he did not wish to feed me under his tents for two months,
according to our contract. Convinced that the whole was but a trick,
I insisted upon proceeding in the original direction. My guide,
however, refused to accompany me; he even left me in the evening;
there were no other trusty people present to guide my steps through
the Desert, I was therefore at last obliged to follow Duehy’s
advice, and came to this place with a salt caravan from Tedmor, which
I had found at Yerud. Two days after my arrival Duehy likewise made
his appearance, and there being nobody present to take up my cause
against him, I was obliged strictly to fulfil the stipulations of
our contract, which he on his side had thus shamefully eluded.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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