Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I have collected some information on the interior parts of Africa,
from the Soudan pilgrims, of whom I have seen great numbers in
Upper Egypt. But I wish to improve upon it, before I transmit it to
the Association. These pilgrims go here by the name of Tekaýrne
(sing. Tekroury, from the verb تكرر: meaning to renew,
improve and purify, that is to say, their faith and learning by
the pilgrimage. It is probably from this name of Tekroury, that
the Arabian geographers have placed a country called Tekrour,
between Timbuctou and Kashna; none of these travellers knew of any
such country.) Such of them as are most distinguished for skill in
writing and reading, style themselves “Fokara,” (from فقير:
a poor man, i. e. before the Lord) which name is given in Upper
Egypt to the whole class of learned men. Most of the Tekaýrne come
from Darfour; some from Bornou and the country of Wady el Ghazal,
between Bornou and Darfour; others from Bagherme and Borgho. I have
not met with a single man from Wangara, nor could I ever find any
whose native country was west of Wangara. The road they take is from
Darfour to Kordofan and Sennaar, from whence they follow the course
of the Nile through Dóngola and Nubia, to Egypt. Those only who
can afford to buy camels and provisions, cross the desert from the
Nile to Souakin, the others live upon alms, and upon the selling of
amulets. I understand that there is a still more frequented pilgrim
road from Sennaar through Abyssinia to Massuah.
Upper Egypt enjoys at present perfect tranquillity, under the severe
but equitable government of Ibrahim Pasha, son of Mohammed Aly. The
taxes are moderate and the whole country is equally assessed;
no avanies are practised, and the soldiery is kept in strict
order. By secularizing a part of the revenues of the church, such
as the superfluous income of mosques, schools, public cisterns,
Olemas, village Shikhs, &c. the Pasha has of late considerably
enriched his treasury. The clerical interest is of course now
in opposition, although the Pasha has become the restorer of the
faith, by delivering the holy cities. The Mamelouks have no chance
of succeeding in any attempt upon Egypt, as long as Mohammed Aly
keeps in power; but if he should happen to fall, I conceive that
although their number is now reduced to three hundred fighting
men only, they would forthwith regain their lost seat in Egypt,
where their friends are still very numerous, especially among the
most daring adventurers, who greatly dislike the just and vigorous
measures of the actual government.
P. S. I am in good health, but have gone during the course of the
summer and autumn, through two very painful ophthalmic attacks,
from the latter of which I have just recovered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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