Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
For the greater part of every year, during the S. W. Monsoon, from
September to March, this place is the busy scene of an extensive
commerce, and a deserted wilderness for the remaining months; after
which interval, again the ships of foreign and the caravans of native
products begin to arrive. Another temporary town rises as if by the wand
of some magician, and thousands of huts and mat houses are erected upon
the beach, where but a few weeks before nothing was to be seen but bare
sands; nothing to be heard save the howling of numerous wild beasts, as
they prowled in search of food, amongst the heaps of filth and animal
remains collected during the preceding fair.
We came in sight of Berberah on the afternoon of the 4th of March. As
the brig rounded a low sandy point, and entered the narrow harbour,
several of the natives, who had been long watching our slow advance, the
wind being very light, leaped into the sea, and swam on board. I could
not avoid noticing immediately the apparent difference in disposition
between them and the people of Tajourah; for a most sullen and
distrustful bearing seemed to characterize the latter, while the
Soumaulee on the contrary, at least those of Berberah, seemed confident
that no violence or injury would be offered to them, they seized the
ropes thrown over the sides of the vessel to assist them as they climbed
up, and in high glee they passed along the deck and on to the poop,
laughing, arranging their wet waist-cloths, and shaking hands, as if
they were among old friends.
We anchored within a short distance of the town, and several of the
leading people came immediately on board. The business connected with my
journey to Berberah was transacted at once in the cabin, the principal
native authority, Allee Shurmalkee, being requested by Mr. Cruttenden to
provide a boat and other necessaries, which he readily consented to do.
As it was late, we none of us went on shore; although I do not believe
any danger would have been incurred by so doing, a very friendly feeling
evidently existing on the part of the natives towards the English,
without that abundant protestation of friendship pressed upon you, as it
is by the people of Tajourah, which you cannot help feeling is
altogether feigned.
During the earlier part of the next day, I amused myself upon deck,
making observations on the temporary town, and speculating on the
different national characters of the mixed multitude which inhabit it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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