Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
In the afternoon a party, consisting of A. Nesbitt, Esq., First Lieut.
of the Euphrates, the Purser, Mr. Powell, and myself, was formed for the
purpose of more closely examining Berberah and its curiosities. One of
the brig’s boats was ordered alongside, and we soon found ourselves
carefully threading a winding course, amidst the numerous fleet of
bogalows moored along-shore, greeted as we passed beneath their huge
misshapen sterns, by the joking salutations and laughing faces of
numerous almè, or slave-girls, who crowded the cabin windows, and the
most striking features of whose dark countenances were rows of pearly
teeth. The boat grounded about thirty yards from dry land, and we were
obliged to be carried upon the shoulders of the crew over a black muddy
beach, being set down amidst heaps of dirt; the rotting debris of the
sea and of the land, drift wood, loose spars, the bones of animals, and
excrements of man, formed a barrier of filth, over which it was
impossible to choose a path, so we at once struck boldly across to the
narrow entrance of what we imagined must be a street, and entered the
town of Berberah.
I should suppose there were at least from four to five thousand huts
placed closely together, uniform in size and elevation, being generally
of an oblong form, about six feet broad, by nine feet in length, and
five feet in height. They consisted of a roof of mats, made of the doom
palm leaf, or of a long dried grass, or else merely half-dried skins
badly preserved, stretched over the usual stick skeleton of a wigwam.
There was not much architectural display, for being all roof, they did
not well admit of it. Nor does convenience appear to be consulted in
laying out streets, or even regular passages, only in so much, that a
small spot on one side of the entrance of each hut is left vacant for
purposes that may be imagined, and a succession of these sweet and
pleasant places make a narrow lane, into which all doors open, and thus
a convenient but dirty street is formed by which alone the visitor is
enabled to perambulate this justly celebrated aromatic yielding fair.
The residences of the few foreign merchants, principally Banians and
Arabs, are exceptions to this general style in the construction of the
houses, and have some pretensions both to appearance and convenience,
usually having mat walls to the height of four or five feet, with a long
slanting roof of grass securely fastened down by sticks of bamboo laid
transversely. The entrance is a kind of hall, opening into the centre of
a room at right angles, and which extends to the right and left, perhaps
ten or twelve feet on each side; its breadth is about ten feet. Behind
this room is another apartment of equal dimensions, which serves as a
store or warehouse, and one end partitioned off by mats, contains the
secluded inmates of the harem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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