Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
As Hadjji Abdullah, after it was dark, had brought me his own mule, it
was stabled for the night in my house, and long before cock-crow the
next morning we were carefully descending in the dark the step-like
road of rough stones which leads from the top of Aliu Amba into the
direct road to Ankobar. We were obliged to be very cautious in our
progress along the steep slippery bank, and the edges of deep muddy
pools produced by the first showers of the rainy season, which had
fallen the few days previously, and had not at all improved the
condition of the road.
The sun had risen before we reached Ankobar. On this occasion it was
unnecessary to go through that town; so having surmounted the long
ridge in front, instead of continuing along it, we crossed directly
over, leaving the little wooden cross and church of Goodis Gorgis (St.
George) in its encircling grove of quolqual and wild fig-trees, on
our left hand. The road we followed was exceedingly narrow, and fell
very gradually in a prolonged sweep down the steep descent into the
valley of the Airahra. Half way down is a broad terrace of considerable
extent covered with immense boulders from the destruction of the ridge
above, and which appears to be more rapidly denuded upon this face than
upon the opposite one looking towards Aliu Amba. On a mound of the
detached rocks and soil in this situation is built a church, dedicated
to “Abbo,” the father, the only one I have ever seen so situated except
the meeting-houses of the Tabibe sect, who do not pay that respect to
ancient superstitions that still influences the other Christians of
Abyssinia. A sufficient reason, however, accounts for its low elevation.
At the commencement of the reign of the present Negoos, a great
portion of the ancient grove of Abbo and its church still occupied
the highest point of the ridge over which we had just come. The
denuding operations of the conjointed actions of earthquakes and
rainy seasons overcame every endeavour that was made to protect the
sacred spot from being encroached upon, it having been one of the most
ancient and most revered of the sacred edifices in Shoa. Annually
large portions were precipitated into the valley of the Airahra; and
ultimately the last portion of the walls of the church disappeared,
after a violent convulsion of the earth, and a single line of trees,
the remains of a once extensive grove, now marks its former site. The
spot is still considered sacred, and so attached were the monks upon
the establishment, to the ancient edifice, that, observing that the
greater portion of the debris had fallen upon the terrace beneath,
they determined to erect upon it a representative of the old church,
although on so low an elevation compared with the numerous heights
around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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