Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. — John Shaqi
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
"My first few days were spent in writing, executing commissions, and
fitting out my good Cannady, who was to return with the answers to the
despatches; all as it turned out to no purpose, for off Algiers the poor
old _Black Joke_ was taken by two French privateers, one of ten, the
other of eight guns. Becalmed off that place, she was attacked on either
side by these lighter vessels, which, with oars and a superior number of
men, had an irresistible advantage. After being gallantly defended by
Cannady, she was taken with the loss of several fine fellows, and her
guns dismounted in the discharging them, for she was a very old vessel.
With her were taken a number of little Turkish purses and trifles,
souvenirs to friends at home, and two fine carpets I paid 30l. for,
which were to have made a figure at Westbourne[4]--I had made a present
of the same kind also to our commander--and all my letters home and
sketches made up till then.
Mr. Adair[5] and Canning[6] have been very polite, and I have dined
frequently at the Palace, and although this is not the sort of society I
very much covet, I find it so extremely useful that I cannot be too
careful to keep up my acquaintance there. Mr. Canning, of whose kindness
on all occasions I cannot speak too highly, has obliged me exceedingly
in lending me a large collection of fairly faithful drawings of the
interiors of mosques, some of them never drawn before, as well as other
curious buildings here, made by a Greek of this place. In copying them I
have been closely employed, as when Mr. Adair leaves, which will be
shortly, they will be sent off to England. I had a scheme of drawing
from windows, but it has failed. I find no Jew or Christian who is bold
enough to admit me into his house for that purpose, so I have to work
from memory. After having made a memorandum, I develop it at home, and
then return again and again to make more notes, till at length the
drawing gets finished. In arriving here just in time to take advantage
of Mr. Adair's firman to see the mosques I was most fortunate. It is a
favour granted to ambassadors only once, and Mr. Adair thinks himself
lucky to get it before going away; but I will tell you in confidence
that I regret very little the impossibility of drawing in them. They
seem to me to be ill-built and barbarous.
Lord Byron and Mr. Hobhouse[7] were of the party."
The Djerid, a mimic fight with javelins on horseback, now, I believe,
entirely disused in Turkey, was still the favourite pastime of young
Turks, and Cockerell speaks of it as being constantly played on the high
open ground or park above Pera, and of his going to watch it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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