Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Next day, as we were allowed, we went all over the castle. It appears to
be of Saracen origin, and according to an inscription to have been
conquered by the Turk Aladin. A remarkable thing about it is that it has
a keep like those one sees in England. It is all in ruins; such guns as
it has are lying about dismounted.
I suppose the people hereabouts are so frightened at us that they send
the news about in all directions; for the bey of the district, who lives
at some distance inland, had heard of our arrival, and sent down his
compliments. Captain Beaufort hastened to send a suitable reply to his
courtesy by an officer with an invitation to come on board, where he
would be received with all the honours of war. He did promise to come
when he could.
All day long Captain Beaufort was preparing, on a small island close to
the castle, the necessary arrangements for making his observation. It
was perfectly successful, and we got back on board at one o'clock A.M.
_25th May._--Having done what was wanted with regard to the verification
of the longitude, we went back in a boat to Cape Anemurium to see the
ancient town. On the point is a fortress and citadel. Outside of that a
second wall includes a theatre and an odeum, the seats of which are all
gone. There are no traces of dwellings within the walls, so that one
must suppose the inhabitants to have lived in mud or timber houses, for
outside the walls there is the most perfect necropolis I ever saw. Each
tomb has two apartments, and all, except for their having been broken
open, are as fresh as if just built.
The ship being still at Anemurium, the bey above mentioned came down to
the beach attended by his retinue. As soon as we made him out, we
pushed off to pay him the compliments of the captain. Nothing could be
more picturesque than the scene when we reached the shore. At the foot
of the precipice of Anemurium he was seated on a small carpet spread on
the rock, surrounded by about a hundred dark, savage-looking men all
heavily armed. They were clearly as pleased to look at us as we were to
see the barbarians of the interior. The gloomy evening cast a grave air
over the wild crags and the savage figures, while the sea broke in heavy
waves at the foot of the rock on which Abdul Muim sat. The manner with
which the bey received us was free and polite. He told us the history of
the country about us, and of the castle in particular. He was very much
pressed to come aboard, but he would not be tempted. Instead of that, he
contented himself with inquiring the length of the ship and sat looking
at her with a pocket telescope for several hours.
We crossed a bay, and lay off Cape Kisliman, a bluff and remarkable cape
on which were ruins, but the people of the country seemed to object to
our examining them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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