Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Our next stoppage was at Selinty, originally Selinus, and afterwards
changed, on the death of Trajan within its walls, to Trajanopolis. It
stands on a remarkable rock, the Cragus, absolutely precipitous on one
side and very steep on the other, with a river, sixty feet or so wide,
at the bottom of the slope. It struck one as curious that with such a
river there should be an aqueduct to carry water across it into the
town. One could only suppose that the water of the river, like that of
the cataracts near Adalia, was unwholesome because it contained a chalky
sediment. To the top of the Cragus is a great climb. There we found a
fortress without any inscriptions of any kind, but, to judge by the
style, of no great age and no interest. The best thing was the view.
Beneath us fell a sheer precipice right down into the sea, perhaps five
hundred feet. As we looked over the top the eagles sprang out from the
rocks far below us, so far that shots fired at them were quite
ineffective. We found here a small theatre, much ruined, and the remains
of a grand senate house, or perhaps a mausoleum to Trajan, also very
much injured. The ship remained a day and a half. After passing a
promontory we came opposite to a rocky ridge sloping rapidly to the sea,
on which was a fortress, answering to Strabo's Antiochetta on the
Cragus. We put off in the gig, and had to land on a precipitous rock in
a high surf, which I did not like at all; but as we had been brought, it
had to be done. We found a place that must have had some importance.
There were fragments of polished granite columns, a modern castle,
several Greek chapels, and ruins on all sides as well. The most
promising were on the mountain above us and on a small peninsula jutting
out from the site of the town. My companions made for the small
peninsula, where they found some tombs like those at Selinty, and other
matters of no great moment. I, hoping for something more considerable,
went up the mountain--and a very rough climb it was. I was, however,
well paid for my exertions. I found there numbers of granite columns,
marble blocks and pedestals, and the ruins of a vast and magnificent
edifice which might have been a senate house or a gymnasium. The
situation of it was truly sublime, and it must have had a glorious
effect from the sea. I hoped to return and examine it more perfectly
next day, but unfortunately Captain Beaufort thought it necessary to get
on to Cape Anemurium by the 24th, in order to make an observation of
Jupiter's satellite which would determine at once his longitude, and the
wind was favourable. We went on therefore, to my great regret, and the
same evening (23rd) anchored opposite a small castle on a low rock by
the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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