Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
We had had nothing to eat all day, and we were not a little sharp-set
when, finding some peasants (Turks) amongst the corn making their
evening meal, with that confidence which hunger inspires we pounced upon
their dishes and devoured all that appeared before us. The poor fellows
were not in the least disconcerted, but begged us to eat, one of them
saying as he pointed to the corn all round him, 'There is plenty of
bread. It is ours.' They would take no money, and when we got up to go
pressed us to stay. Our hearts were melted at their noble benevolence,
and we had to agree that all Turks were not brutes.
On the whole, Seleucia is worth the trouble of a visit.
An immense reservoir, 150 by 75 feet by 30 feet deep, supplied by an
aqueduct, impressed me as a very fine work. The theatre also, although
totally ruined, is delightfully situated; and the temple, which had been
converted into a church, is very interesting. The Calicadnus, although
it is on an even bed, is a noble river, wide and rapid, and gives great
beauty to the scene. It is unhealthy to drink, which accounts for the
existence of the great reservoir.
It is evident that the population of these countries has decreased, and
still is decreasing. It has not one-tenth of what it could easily
support, and not one-hundredth of what it has supported in past times.
While we were away at Selefkeh a bombard French privateer came into the
bay of Seleucia in pursuit of a Turkish boat, and would have fallen into
our hands if the captain and pilot had been on board; but the necessary
delay before this could be done enabled the Frenchman to get to shallow
water, and the _Frederiksteen_ in pursuit ran into four fathoms, and in
another five minutes would have been aground. So the bombard
escaped.[40]
_Anchored off Lingua di Bagascia._--We arrived at a castle named Curco,
with another on a rock outside the port, which has an Armenian
inscription on it. The one on the mainland, which I take to be the
ancient Coricus, is a place of great strength. There is a moat thirty
feet wide, cut in solid rock, to disconnect from the land, and double
walls and towers. There are many ruins of modern churches and
monasteries and numberless sarcophagi of ancient and early Christian
times, but the whole place, town and castles, is absolutely deserted.
We were in the boat following the frigate as she proceeded along the
coast, when, perceiving ruins on the coast, we disembarked, and found on
a striking eminence a Corinthian temple of bad execution which had been
converted into a church. Further on was a town, a theatre, and a vast
colonnade with a number of important and very perfect tombs. We had,
however, to retire to the boat, for the inhabitants were very
threatening, and had we been fewer or shown any fear might have fared
badly. As soon as we were off in the boat we had a good bathe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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