Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
_At the Latmus._--Captain Beaufort sent two of his officers ashore to
inspect the long aqueduct leading to Eleusa, which we could see from the
ship, but the aga, who had at first consented to their going, withdrew
his permission, and they had to give it up.
At Pompeiopolis, as we had understood that the Turks of this part of the
country were particularly dangerous, I took with me two marines as a
guard to visit the ruins. Seen from the sea they presented a truly
startling grandeur. The plan of the city is noble in the extreme--one
single colonnade passes right through it from the port to the gate
leading out into the country, and forty of its columns are still
standing. The remainder, making about two hundred, lie as they fell. The
town was defended by a fine wall with towers to it, enclosing a theatre
and the port. The style of the architecture, which looked so well from
a distance, when one comes to see it close is very bad.
Pompeiopolis is quite deserted, but the Turks from the neighbouring
villages came in, and, although their appearance was barbarous in the
extreme, they were very civil. I imagine the 36 guns and 350 men of the
_Frederiksteen_ had to do with this, for I observed that the further we
got from the ship the less polite we always found the Turks to be.
We made sail in the evening and anchored off Mersine, at the beginning
of the great plain of Tarsous, and put ashore to reconnoitre and pay a
visit to the aga with a view to getting horses to go to Tarsous. The aga
was very civil and promised we should have the horses we asked for.
In the morning the horses were ready; but now the aga, for whatever
reason, discouraged our going to Tarsous, and told us that since seeing
us yesterday evening he had received news of an outbreak there, that a
neighbouring pasha had attacked the town and all was uproar and arms. On
reflection his account struck us as so improbable that we decided at any
rate to start, and go on according to the information we should pick up
on the road. We set out, a large party.
The country was a flat, covered with corn and in it many reapers, male
and female, the latter going uncovered and quite unembarrassed by
strangers. Their language and costume were Arab, quite unlike anything
I had seen before, and there were quantities of camels about.
The ride took us four hours. From the inquiries we made from time to
time it was clear that the aga's tale had been a downright lie.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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