Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Tarsous lies on the plain about two miles and a half from the mountains.
At the entrance to it is a hillock about a quarter of a mile long, which
commands the town; it was included in the ancient walls, which were then
strengthened by a moat into which the river was turned. It is now dry,
and the present town has nothing but a slight wall round it. We passed
over the old moat and through an ancient gate of Roman work. It had
three arches, but only one of them is standing, and the wall it formed
the passage through and every other antiquity in the town has been
destroyed and used up for building materials. Nothing could exceed the
surprise of the inhabitants at our appearance. They had never seen
Europeans, and they crowded about us in such numbers that we could with
difficulty move. We went to visit the aga and were detained, sitting
among the servants an hour and a half before we could obtain an
audience. The aga, they said, was engaged. At last we remonstrated and
got up to go; when, to our surprise and indignation, we saw the aga
sitting in a room by himself smoking his pipe and quite unoccupied. We
would have passed the door had they not pressed us in, so angry were we.
He was sitting on a sofa in a long white Arab cloak in a room that was
neater and handsomer than it is usual to see in these countries. He made
a slight motion on our coming in, but spoke not a word, nor did he deign
to answer 'Yhary' when we conveyed to him the compliments of the
captain. A Turk who sat by his side with our firman in his hands now
addressed a Turk who was with us with an affectation of great
indignation. He wanted to know what could be the meaning of four hundred
men, when only eight men were mentioned in the firman--together with a
number of other insolent questions, from which I gathered that he
suspected us of being travelling merchants. Fortunately, as these
remarks were not addressed to us, we were not bound to make any reply,
for if we had we were by this time in such a state of impatience with
their insolent barbarity that it would hardly have been a conciliatory
one. As soon as we could get away, we mounted our horses again, and
through a thick and insulting rabble went out of the town and homewards
without delay. An old Turk of the aga's people, who had been one of the
chief of our tormentors, saw us off for some distance. To him I had the
satisfaction of giving a piece of my mind, and when we came within sight
of the ship gave him an invitation on board that he might see how we
treated strangers. The old rascal went home very much abashed and
awestruck. We arrived on board late, and well wetted by coming through
the violent surf.
The ship was two more days off the great plain of Tarsous, moving slowly
in a thick haze, and on the 16th arrived off Cape Karadash.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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