Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
"We had nothing but west winds, very unfavourable for us. Meltern, as
this wind is called, follows the rim of the coast of Asia Minor, being
north in the Archipelago, west along Karamania, and turning south again
down the coast of Syria. We were seldom out of sight of land--first the
mountains of Asia, then Rhodes, Crete, the Morea, &c. Finally we reached
Malta on the 18th of July, being the twenty-seventh day since we left
Scanderoon, and the end of a month of complete idleness. I spent most of
the time in the captain's cabin, showing him all the attention I could,
and profiting in return very much by his society and his library.
To get to Malta was a refreshment to our spirits. Numbers of visitors
came at once under the stern to salute Captain Beaufort, although until
we had pratique they could not come aboard. The plague is at present in
Smyrna, and quarantine for ships from thence usually lasts thirty or
forty days; but as we could prove that we had had no communication with
any infected town, we were let off in two days. Unfortunately, from the
moment we arrived I began to feel unwell. All the time I was on the
coast of Asia I had been taking violent exercise and perspiring
profusely, while since we left I had been wholly confined; and the
consequence of the change was a violent bilious attack with fever. After
stopping in bed three days I thought I would take a trip to Sant'
Antonio with Gammon, the senior officer; but I got back so thoroughly
done up that I had to lie up again, and was ill for three weeks in
Thorn's Hotel.[41] My chief remedies, prescribed by Doctors Stewart of
the _Frederiksteen_ and Allen of the Malta Hospital, were calomel in
large quantities and bleeding.
Every day one or other of the officers of the _Frederiksteen_--Gammon,
Seymour, Lane, or Dodd--came to sit with me.
When I was able to get about again, I found that Captain Beaufort had
been moved to the house of Commissioner Larcom, where every possible
care was taken of him. They were a most agreeable and hospitable
family--the only one, indeed, in Malta. The officers--General Oakes,
Colonel Phillips, &c.--were like all garrison officers. Mr. Chabot, the
banker, honoured my drafts, and when I was going expressed his sorrow
that I was off so soon, as he had hoped to have seen me at his house.
As soon as ever I was well enough I felt eager to get away from a
society so odious to me as that of Malta, and having been introduced
from two separate sources to Mr. Harvey, commander of H.M. brig
_Haughty_, I got from him an excellent passage to Palermo. It took us
from the 20th August to the 28th. Mr. Harvey himself was ill, and I saw
little of him, but what I did delighted me. Like all sailors, he was
very lovable, and so long as he remained in Palermo I went to him every
day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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