Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
My first day I strolled over the town and delivered my letters to Mr.
Gibbs and Mr. Fagan. The latter is an antiquarian and a great digger. He
told me, I think, that he had dug up over two hundred statues in his
time. I called on him several times afterwards, pleased with his
conversation and hoping to learn something of Sicily from him, and found
him exceedingly polite. A return of the fever I had in Malta confined me
again for a few days, after which I managed to keep it at bay with
plenty of port wine and bark. My chief friends in Palermo were General
and Mrs. Campbell, Sir Robert Laurie, captain of a 74 lying here, Lord
William Bentinck, generalissimo of the British army of occupation in
Sicily, and Fagan.
After a fortnight in Palermo I started on a trip to Segeste. I could not
but be very much struck by the difference between the richness of
Sicily, and the desolation of Greece under Turkish rule. Mahomet II.
desired that on his tomb should be written that had he lived he proposed
in the ensuing summer to conquer 'the beautiful Italy and the island of
Rhodes.' Sicily must have followed, and I pictured in my mind the
landscape as it would then have looked. A few ruined mosques would have
supplied the place of the splendid churches and monasteries, and a
wretched khan and a few low huts the rich towns of Sala and Partinico.
The temple of Segeste is the largest I have seen, but it looks as if it
had never been finished. The style of workmanship is good and exact, but
as far inferior to Athenian execution as its rough stone is to
Pentilican marble. The turn of the capital is very inferior in delicacy
to Athenian examples, and there is no handsome finish to the ceiling of
the peristyle, which was probably of plaster like Ægina. The circular
sinking cut in the plinth to receive the column, leaving a space all
round to give a play, it is said, in case of earthquake, is certainly
curious if that was the purpose of it. Nothing whatever remains of the
cella.
In the evening we returned to Alcamo and next day breakfasted with
Colonel Burke, who is in command of a regiment of 1,400 fine men, all
Piedmontese and Italians, not Sicilians. One finds Englishmen in command
everywhere. Returned to Palermo.
My fame had spread in my absence, and on my return I found my table
covered with cards and invitations--the most conspicuous being from
General Macfarlane and Lord Montgomery.
The palaces of the Sicilian nobles are exasperatingly pretentious and
tasteless; that of Palagonia is an unforgetable nightmare.
Though a paradise compared with Greece, I find Sicily seething with
discontent; and were it not for Lord W. Bentinck, to whom the people
look up as the only honest man amongst the authorities, there would be
an insurrection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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