Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
It was two o'clock in the morning when we got to Meraca, utterly tired
out, and with our lodging still to seek. We were directed to a tower in
which lived an Albanian aga. The entrance was at the top of a staircase
running up the side of the house and ending in a drawbridge which led to
the door on the first floor. Once inside we went up two other flights of
stairs to a room in which we found two Albanians, by whom we were kindly
received. When they heard how tired we were they offered us some rasky.
Besides that there was some miserable bread, but no coffee or meat to
refresh us. We had to lie down and go to sleep without.
There are few visible remains of the once famous Olympia,[26] and not a
trace of stadium or theatre that I could make out. The general opinion
is that the Alpheus has silted up and buried many of the buildings to a
depth of 8 or 10 feet, and our small researches point in the same
direction. We dug in the temple, but what we could do amounted to next
to nothing. To do it completely would be a work for a king. I had had
some difficulty with the Greek labourers at Ægina, but the Turks here
were much worse. In the first place, instead of one piastre apiece per
day they asked 2½, and in the next they had no proper tools. The earth
was as hard as brick, and when with extreme difficulty it had been
broken up they had no proper shovels; and when the earth, which they
piled along the trench as they dug it out, ran into the hole again, they
scooped it out with their hands. The thing was too ludicrous. Worst of
all, as soon as we turned our backs for a moment they either did nothing
or went away. This happened when we left them to cross the river and try
for a better view of the place. We got over in a caique, which the aga
himself, from the village across the water, punted over to us; but the
view over there was disappointing, and we came back to find, as I say,
our workmen all idling. The long and short of our excavations was that
we measured the columns of the temple to be 7 feet in diameter, and we
found some attached columns and other fragments of marble from the
interior, the whole of which I suppose was of marble, that of the
pavement being of various colours. Such stone as is used is of a rough
kind, made up entirely of small shells and covered with a very white and
fine plaster. And that is about all the information we got for a
largish outlay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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