Napoli is one of the chief fortresses of the Morea, and the custom on entering such places is to get off one's horse. Our servant, who knew nothing of this, was cruelly beaten by the guard. When we came up we were told of it by the grooms who looked after our luggage, and conjured by the Panagia and the Cross to dismount as we went in. We, however, thought it unbecoming our dignity, and rode boldly in. The guard, seeing so many hats, was awed and said nothing; but we could see by the frowns of the bystanders that our presumption was disapproved, and when we complained to the pasha, the head of the janissaries, of the way our servant was mishandled, he took very little notice of us. Generally speaking the Turks in their fortresses are insufferably intolerant and insolent. Our treatment was no inducement to stay, and we made on for Athens as soon as we could. We visited the sacred grove at Epidaurus,[31] the ruins of Mycenæ,[32] and stayed one day in Corinth. But we were glad to get to Athens; it was like home to us. For three weeks I had slept with my clothes on, without a bed, and with only one blanket to wrap myself in." FOOTNOTES: [29] It probably was the insurrection, for when it occurred he took an important part in it. He was the opponent of the Mavro Michali faction, headed by Petro Bey. [30] Here it was that Chevalier Bronstedt was stopped next year and robbed: _vide infra._ [31] The Hieron of Epidaurus excavated by the Archæological Society of Athens. [32] Excavated by Schliemann in 1876. CHAPTER X ÆGINA MARBLES CALLED FOR BY BRITISH GOVERNMENT SHIPS--LEAVES ATHENS FOR CRETE AND EGYPT WITH HON. FRANCIS NORTH--CANEA--CONDITION OF CRETE--BY LAND--RETIMO--KALIPO CHRISTO--CANDIA--AUDIENCE OF THE PASHA--HIS BAND-- THE ARCHBISHOP--THE MILITARY COMMANDANT--TURKISH SOCIETY--LIFE IN CANDIA. "Waiting for me in Athens I found letters from my father detailing the measures he had taken in our favour concerning the marbles. He had moved the Prince Regent, who had given orders that 6,000l. and a free entry should be offered for the collection, and that a ship of war should be sent to fetch it. The offer might be considered equal to 8,000l. The ship might be expected at once. Here was a bitter disappointment to be unable to accept so splendid an offer, and a painful embarrassment as well; for I had led the Government, quite unintentionally, to suppose that they had only to send for the marbles to secure them. In consequence of which they were sending two great vessels at great expense, whereas I should now have to tell the captain not only that the marbles were no longer in Athens--but that they could not be handed over at all."