Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
And now for Candia and Egypt. Good port as the Piræus is once you are
inside, to get in and out of it is very awkward. The brig, of course,
well handled, had no difficulty; but we failed altogether at the first
attempt, and at the next as near as possible got on to the rocks at the
entrance. The _Pauline_ laid to for us till we were out, and then sailed
ahead much more quickly than we were able to follow. The day was bright,
the wind was fair, and it was new and exhilarating to sail in such good
company. At Ægina, where the temple stood up clear for us to see, the
brig and the transport lay to, to land a pilot, and we went in front,
but they soon caught us up again; and when they passed us, comparing
their trimness and order with our state, I saw why a Greek always speaks
with such awe of an English ship. Between Hydra--a black and barren
rock--and the mainland a storm, which we just escaped, swept along, and
our captain seeing it, and thinking dirty weather might come on, steered
towards Milo so as to be able to put in there in case of danger, and we
parted with our convoy. Of our party I was the only one who was not ill,
and appeared at dinner; and as the air was close below among my sick
friends, I passed the night on deck in a seaman's coat. In the morning
Candia was in sight, and by midday we were in Canea--only twenty-eight
hours.
As we drew near, the town, with its many minarets, all white and
stretching along a flat, with dark mountains, peak above peak, in very
fine forms behind it, had a most striking effect. From a great distance
one could distinguish the large arched arsenals built by the Venetians
for their galleys. The port is difficult to enter, and we nearly ran
ashore here again by mistaking a breach in the wall which encloses the
port for the entrance to it. It is a gap which has once been mended by
the Turks, but it was so ill done that it fell in again immediately; and
now it has been a ruin for some time and seems likely to remain one. We
dropped our anchor ill too, so that the stem of our ship ran foul of
some rocks, but no harm was done.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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