Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
"I like watching the sailors. Many of them are very fine fellows, and I
have nearly filled my book with drawings of them and the Frenchmen.
Self-consciousness had the most ludicrous effect upon them when I was
doing their portraits, and great rough fellows who you might think would
eat horseflesh would simper with downcast eyes, like a coquettish miss.
Their ways of killing time are wonderful. Sometimes you see one
whittling a piece of hard wood for some trifling purpose for hours and
hours together. At another time, if an unfortunate little bird comes on
to the vessel, they run about the rigging damning its eyes till they are
tired out. There are some great singers amongst them, who treat us in
the evenings. Their taste is to sing about two hundred verses to the
same tune. I am told we have one highly accomplished, who can sing a
song of three hundred. I only hope we shall never hear him.
We arrived at Malta overnight and awaited despatches, which we have
received this morning. Everywhere the authorities are so solicitous that
no time should be lost that we are sent on without mercy. I am told the
despatches we brought here were of consequence; but, like all postmen,
we know nothing of the contents of the letters we bring. Only we see
that all rejoice and wish the commandant, General Oakes,[2] joy. I also
hear that the French are advancing on Sicily.
The harbour here is full of prizes. A frigate came in this morning full
of shot holes. She had cut out a brig from Taranto in the face of two
brigs, a schooner, and a frigate."
From Malta it took the _Black Joke_ over a month to get to
Constantinople. Most of the letters written home during the time were
sent back by the _Black Joke_ on her return voyage. It will be seen why
they never reached their destination.
Meanwhile some notes were despatched by other means, and from them I
extract the following:
"We took a pilot from Malta, a decayed Ragusan captain. Had I made but
the first steps in Italian as I had in French, I might have profited by
this opportunity as I did by the French prisoners; for the man spoke no
other language, and was to direct us through a dangerous sea by signs
and grimace as the only means of communication between us.
At first we had a fair wind, but as we got nearer the Morea it became
less favourable and blew us nearly up to Zante. Some ancient writer
records the saying in his day, 'Let him who is to sail round Taenarus
(Matapan) take a last farewell of his relations;' and it is still
dangerous, on account of the eddies of wind about Taygetus for one
thing, and on account of the cruel Mainiote pirates for another. We
passed it securely; but the story of an English brig of war having been
boarded and taken by them while the captain and crew were at dinner, and
that not long ago, put us on our guard. We had nettings up at night, and
a sharp look-out at all hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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